Dan's Papers - July 4, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking

We have had ample time now to clean up the grill and test our mettle for wonderful days of barbecue in the months ahead. And in time to celebrate the birth of our country on the Fourth of July.

I remember tasting chimichurri, the national steak sauce of Argentina, in an Argentinean restaurant in Miami Beach a number of years ago. I've learned there are many variations of this piquant sauce, which basically consists of garlic, spices, vinegar, and tons of fresh Italian parsley. The acidic herbal taste of the sauce served over grilled skirt steak haunts me to this day. As I fantasize over the flavor of chimichurri, skirt steak will be my choice of meat to grill for the holiday. To cook the steak I take my cue from the grilling chart in Steven Raichlin's Barbecue Bible, Workman Publishing, 1998. Skirt steak is a long narrow strip of meat shaped like a belt and is of uneven thickness. The cooking time therefore, is quick, 2-4 minutes per side, depending on thickness. Allow the meat to rest 4-5 minutes after grilling then slice the meat on the bias across the grain for serving.

Wheat berry salad with sugar snap peas and cherry tomatoes is a colorful grain salad that can be prepared ahead to serve at a barbecue buffet. This high protein salad is a delicious do-ahead treat. Lots of cut up fresh melons and watermelon chunks make a fine and simple finish to a happy Fourth celebration. These are just a few ideas to toss around to help with summer grilling and entertaining plans.

SKIRT STEAK ON THE GRILL
Skirt steak, shaped like a belt is a long narrow cut from the diaphragm muscle. Although a bit chewy the chew adds texture to this juicy and flavorful cut.
Serves 4 - 6

3 pounds skirt steak, trimmed of excess fat
Coarse grained kosher or sea salt
Coarsely ground pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil to coat

1. Build a fire in your grill until coals are ashen hot or heat a gas grill to medium high. Brush the grill grate with vegetable oil.

2. Cut steaks into 3-4 inch sections. Put the pieces on the grill and cook about two minute per side for the thinner steaks and up to four minutes a side for the thicker steaks to acheive medium rare. Skirt steak does not respond well to overcooking.

3. Allow meat to rest for several minutes then serve with the chimichurri sauce.

CHIMICHURRI SAUCE
Chimichurri, the national steak sauce of Argentina with its vinegary tang, is served as a condiment with grilled skirt steak.
Yield about 1/2 cup

2 large cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
1 tightly packed cup flat-leaf Italian parsley leaves
1 teaspoon paprika
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
Dash or two cayenne
2-3 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Place garlic in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with steel knife and process until finely chopped. Add parsley, paprika, cumin, salt, cayenne and vinegar. Pulse machine a couple of times to mix ingredients. Gradually pour oil through feed tube until mixture is homogenous. Taste to adjust seasonings as necessary. Pour into a screw top jar, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

WHEATBERRY SALAD WITH SUGAR SNAP PEAS AND CHERRY TOMATOES
I love the wholesome crunch and texture of wheat berries in salads. This marvelous grain is best purchased in natural food stores or specialty markets. Note the recipe calls for the wheat berries to soak for one hour before cooking.
Serves 6-8

For the wheat berries
1 cup whole wheat berries
2 1/2 cups water
Coarse (kosher) or sea salt to taste

For the salad
4 large scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons snipped chives
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 ounces or about 3/4 cup sugar snap peas, stemmed and cut into thirds
6-8 cherry tomatoes, rinsed and halved
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon high-quality balsamic vinegar
Boston lettuce leaves, for serving, (optional)

1. Toast the wheat berries in a skillet over medium heat about 5 minutes, gently shaking pan occasionally until they give off a pleasant aroma. Transfer to a strainer and rinse under cold running water. Put the wheat berries in a saucepan with the water and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Place the pan containing the wheat berries and water over high heat, add salt, cover pan and bring to a boil. Adjust heat to a brisk simmer and cook for 1 hour or longer just until grains are tender. Check the water level near the end of their cooking time to be certain the water doesn't evaporate before the berries are done. Add more water as necessary. When done remove from heat, let rest for a few minutes then turn out into a large strainer to cool. Transfer to a salad bowl.

2. Add the salad ingredients to the wheat berries in their order finishing with the oil and vinegar. Toss gently to mix and taste to adjust seasoning as necessary. The salad may be prepared up to one day ahead and refrigerated covered. When ready to serve bring to room temperature. If desired, arrange washed and dried whole leaves of lettuce on serving plates and spoon equal amounts of salad over the leaves.