Dan's Papers - July 4, 2008

A Little Known Alpine Region In Northern Italy Where They Speak German And Grow Pinot Noir

Every time a Dan's Wine Guide deadline approaches, I inquire of editor Susan Whitney Simm and her husband David if they have recently tasted any wines that they feel would make an interesting article for our readers. This month they happened to have had a wine from a wonderful alpine wine region in northern Italy called Alto-Adige, and asked if I had an interest in writing about the wines of this place. It so happens that Alto-Adige is of particular interest to me given its location and language. I have spent a bit of time traveling in Italy, but am severely handicapped by my lack of Italian linguistic skills, which are limited to culinary and vinous terms. Having worked and lived in Switzerland and Austria, however, my German, which is the language of choice in the Alto-Adige, is decent.

The region is referred to as Sud-Tirol in the mother tongue and most signs, menus and wines found in the region are labeled in both Italian and German. Alto-Adige is named for the Adige river that drains from the Dolomites into the Adriatic, and alto refers to the high part of the river. The valley, Val d'Adige, is one of many alpine valleys that run between Austria, Switzerland, Italy and France. It is also one of the valleys situated between the Val d'Engadina and Val Gastein, two valleys where I lived while training as a chef in the mid 1980s.

The wines of Alto-Adige are just beginning to gain respect in this country. Pinot Grigio may still be the most recognized wine of the region, but there are several other grapes that produce both unique and fine wines. It is quite possible that Alto-Adige is the oldest wine region in Italy with a winemaking tradition that is at least 2000 years old. One of the region's most famous exports might be the Gewurztraminer grape, which was originally called just Traminer after the town of Tramin (the spice, or Gewurz, came later).

Today it is possible to find wines labeled as Traminer, Gewurztraminer, Tramin Aromatico and Termeno Aromatico. My palate indicates that the Traminer may be a different clone than the spicy or aromatic versions. Besides Traminer, the region has two indigenous red grapes: Vernatsch, that is thankfully being replaced by other varietals, and Lagrein, which has shown great potential. Lagrein produces wines that are deep and dark with plenty of plum, violet and spicy notes, but very soft tannins. Due to the tannins and rich dark fruit these wines match many styles of cuisine. Wines produced from Lagrein can vary from gentle and fruity to serious and complex. In general, the less expensive Lagrein will cost just below $20 a bottle and the more complex, serious wines can cost as much as $50 a bottle. Look to Cantina di Terlano for both inexpensive and pricier Lagreins and to Tiefenbrunner and Muri-Gries for less expensive wines. Near the top of the quality and price spectrum are the rare wines of Abbazia di Novacella.

The climate and soils of the region allow cool climate-loving varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to prosper. For Chardonnay, look for Alois Lageder and Hofstatter wines. Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes labeled just plain Sauvignon - I am not sure if this is due to the potential for some Sauvignon Vert being blended in or just a tradition - but the best Sauvignons can compete with the best France and New Zealand have to offer. I have been lucky enough to experience the great old Sauvignon Blancs from Cantina di Terlano and Manicour. Both are very age-worthy, including a still lively Sauvignon from the late 1960s I tasted last year, which must be the oldest Sauvignon Blanc I have ever tasted.

Pinot Noir, which is labeled in Italian as Pinot Nero and in German as Blauburgunder, has great potential in the soils and climate found in these alpine foothills. Some producers have really started to produce fine examples. My current favorite is Tiefenbrunner's Riserva Lintaclarus. But I feel that there will be many more producers making excellent Pinot Noir in the near future. Other producers of note for Pinot Nero in the Alto-Adige include St. Michael-Eppan, Alois Lageder, and Hofstatter for their Riserva Mazon, but I am sure there are many more to come with the increased popularity of both the region and the grape.