Dan's Papers - July 4, 2008

Kobe Beach Club
East Hampton
44 Three Mile Harbor Road
East Hampton, NY
631-604-2610

Three little flags said it all. Shogun's Flight, an entrée comprised of 4 oz. each of American, Australian and Japanese Wagyu filet and a 6 oz. American Prime strip loin stood side by side, juiced and ready for take off. The meat - super-fatty, succulent and red - is Kobe Beach Club's flagship dish, literally. Adorned with the respective flags of each country, this meal for two is definitely not for the unadventurous eater. At Kobe Beach Club, the food has a rhyme, a reason and an energy all its own.

Even though Kobe Beach Club is the new kid on the block this summer season, its freshman status certainly has no reflection on the caliber of the dining experience. Restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow of China Grill Management and entertainment executive Charlie Walk, have made three's company with their latest Kobe Club outpost, Kobe Beach Club in East Hampton. A nice change of pace for Kobe Club lovers, this location has indoor and outdoor seating, a late-night lounge menu and local fresh seafood. The restaurant shares a building with new hotspot nightclub Lily Pond and both venues have been attracting long lines of curious diners and dancers.

Kobe Beach Club's décor screams drama while whispering shabby chic. Deep purples and charcoals offset the backdrop of white tiles and creamy leather accents. A diner might feel at ease, that's until they look up to the signature Kobe Club aesthetic - samurai sword chandeliers. Under the eye of Chris Kofitsas of New World Design Builders, six custom samurai chandeliers loom famously and dot the ceilings.

Enveloped in artistic stimulation, diners sip on the Kobe Punch, which is infused with Grey Goose vodka and served in a punch bowl with marinated pineapple, mango and a carafe of fresh squeezed juices. And don't forget the bucket of ice on the side. If the punch isn't to your liking, you can indulge in any of the other cocktails made by master mixologist David Wondrich. With fun drinks like the Pre-Prohibition (pot-stilled gin and dry Vermouth); Martini Criollo (an Art Deco era variation from South America with gin, sweet vermouth and yellow Chartreuse); Grey Flannel ('50s style with hardly any Vermouth), you are bound to find a fruity favorite.

Personally, I'd recommend abstaining from large meals a few days before you visit the Kobe Beach Club. Once things get started, you'll find yourself sending every plate back to the kitchen - clean.

The main dining room seats 70, but my dining adventurer and I decided to sit in the outdoor patio garden. Our server Noelle, host Franco and Manager Azdine Sallem guided us through the meal. We began our journey with a few appetizers, namely the American "Kobe" Beef Cheek Ravioli served in truffle broth. Chewing is not required. The sweet broth and tender meat stuffed ravioli dissolved on the tongue. Or how about the Crab Cake "Double Stuffer?" Paired with garlic and ginger aioli, this wasn't your average lump. This dish was composed of a crab cake sandwich with a fine, edgy crust and creamy center. But what would a true Kobe Beach Club appetizer be without their famous bacon? No, we're not talking about your average store bought bacon. This slow roasted Applewood Bacon had a Hampton Style Magazine thickness and was covered in a black truffle ticker tape parade. A little strong, and perhaps a little sobering, my dining partner and I felt like this would be the hottest item if there were a brunch menu.

To cleanse the palate, we ordered the fresh seared wild salmon summer salad. Perfect for hot days of July and August, this dish was tossed in blood orange vinaigrette, topped with organic greens, shaved fennel and fresh herbs. Just to revisit the Shogun's Flight for a moment, there's an important dining tip I must share. The meat is served side by side and in successive order with the quality of marbling, color, luster and texture increasing with each filet. As you may or may not know, Kobe (Wagyu) Beef is the foie gras of beef, the creme de la creme, and it only comes from one place in the world - Kobe, Japan. The cattle are fed special diets of sake and beer and Wagyu beef cashes in at about $100-$150 per pound. With this dish before you, it's essential that you do not eat the pieces in random order. Start off first with the American Prime strip loin, then move to the American filet, then the Australian cut and finally end with Japanese Wagyu. Although not light on the wallet, this will be a plate you won't forget. And you can mix and match any of Kobe Beach Club's meats with lobster, King Crab or shrimp to make your own surf and turf.

Holy Truffle oil! Truffles and truffle oil coats every dish in some way. When you visit, don't neglect the side dishes or the late night menu. The Sake White Truffle Creamed Corn is addictive. The Kobe Beach Club staffers couldn't stop talking about how it's their favorite dish and with the addition of White Truffle, this new spin on the old homey comfort food is a necessary choice. And that's not even to mention the popular Kobe Hot Dog on their late night menu that's been pleasing happy bar bunnies on Wednesday nights, 6-10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 11 p.m. - 2 a.m.

But who is the mastermind behind all these gourmet creations? Formerly of Sweetwater, English is Italian and Borough Food & Drink, Executive Chef Paul Williams is the culinary genius responsible for Kobe's dining delight. He explains, "great cooking is all about quality ingredients. I like to keep things simple. If you get the best of the best materials, the food will speak for itself."