Dan's Papers - June 26, 2009 - Wölffer Estate Vineyard

When I sit down to one of the Sunday morning wine tastings I conduct on my dining room table, I never quite know what I'm going to get. I taste wine made from every corner of New York State and, frankly, sometimes it can be an extreme sport. There is a lot of bad wine being made in New York, people. Even on Long Island.

That's one reason I appreciate Wölffer Estate so much. I know what I'm going to get - elegance, balance and quality. A batch of winemaker Roman Roth's newest releases displays those qualities well.

As well known as Wolffer is, I'm also surprised that Roth's sparkling wines don't get more attention. The 2005 Wölffer Estate Sparkling Brut, Blanc de Blanc ($35), made with 100% chardonnay from vines planted in 1988, offers classic notes of toasted brioche, ripe apple and citrus on the nose. Crisp, and well balanced, this sparkler is appley and citrusy with a vein of minerality that steps forward on the end of a long finish. Like oysters? Try this wine with those Blue Points.

Though a bit less refined than the stellar 2003 bottling, Wölffer Estate's 2005 Estate Selection Chardonnay ($29) is still a fine example of barrel fermented chardonnay. Extremely toasty on the nose, oak and vanilla scents dominate with juicy-ripe pear aromas peeking through. Medium-to-full bodied with extremely lively acidity, the palate shows rich peach and pear fruit character with butterscotch, vanilla and oak. The finish is long, tongue-tingly with acidity and finishes on a citrusy note. I think this wine's best days are ahead of it. The acidity will integrate better and the flavors will even out a bit.

Pinot noir, often called the 'heartbreak grape' can be difficult to make, both in the vineyard and in the winery. Add Long Island's humidity and inconsistent weather from year to year and it can be even more difficult. But, a handful of local producers make good-to-great wines more often than not, including Wölffer Estate's 2006 Pinot Noir ($35). Bright aromas of cherries and cranberries mingle with hints of baking spice, cigar box and dried herbs. The palate is driven by cherry and juicy cranberry flavors with a smoky, spicy and savory quality that kept me going back for sip after sip. A long, balanced finish features just a hint of leaf tobacco. With fresh acidity and light, fine-grained tannins, this is a wine that shines brightest at the dinner table.

Two merlots rounded out the new releases, Wölffer Estate's 2006 Reserve Merlot ($20) and Wölffer Estate's 2004 Estate Selection Merlot ($35). The reserve bottling, a nice value in local merlot, has aromas of black cherries, thyme, earthy dried leaves and sweet oak. Lighter and elegant in style, the palate shows pretty floral flavors with cherries, herbs and spice. A wet stone note on the finish is interesting and delicious.

The Estate Selection features 20% cabernet sauvignon blended in and shows much more oak character. Dark fruit, coffee, vanilla-oak and dark chocolate intermingle on a broad, effusive nose. Similar flavors greet the palate, with ripe, smooth tannins. Personally, for $15 less, I prefer the reserve bottling.

It's not summer in the Hamptons without rosé - and it is summer now, rain and clouds be damned - and the Wölffer Estate 2008 Rosé ($16) continues the winery's tradition of quality, dry rosé. Made with 53% Merlot, 26% Chardonnay, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, it is fresh and refreshing with bright flavors of strawberries, kiwi, green apple and citrus. It's clean, well balanced and best served chilled - either on its own at the beach or pool, or with most any seafood or light fare.