Dan's Papers - June 27, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

In the summer, cocktail parties take on a life of their own. They differ immensely from those thrown in the winter. For one thing - weather permitting - they can be held outdoors at an early enough hour to enjoy what is truly the best light of the day, that special light before sunset, so native to our locale. The scene is set with a multitude of guests crowding the patio. It is a time for appetite and conviviality, an interlude for a sip and a nibble between a day of work and play, and perhaps dream of dinner. However, cocktail foods can nevertheless satiate with addictive canapés and stylish cocktails, a local wine, or a refreshing bubbly.

Shrimp, no doubt one of the most beloved shellfish, makes a wickedly delicious appetizer when marinated briefly in their shell in savory Asian ingredients, skewered, and grilled. Guests must peel their own shrimp, so be sure to provide lots of napkins. Sun-dried tomato tapenade with goat cheese is the perfect finger food when spread on crostini. A platter full, garnished with Mediterranean olives, makes a beautiful presentation. You can also feed a crowd with addictive phyllo cheese sticks. Moisten the sheets, sprinkle with grated parmesan, roll into cigar shapes, and bake. Best of all, the cheese sticks can be made days ahead and kept perfectly fresh and crisp in a cookie tin. Happy guests are sure to devour these little treats.

GRILLED SHRIMP IN THE SHELL
Marinate and grill shrimp in their shell then enjoy in messy splendor.
Serves 6-8 as an appetizer.

1 pound large raw shrimp in their shells (22-25 count)

Marinade
1 one inch piece fresh ginger, grated
2-3 scallions, white and light green part, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil

Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes or longer.

1. With a sharp paring knife or kitchen shears, cut a slit along the upper curve of each shrimp through the shell to the tail. Lift out intestinal vein, rinse in cold water, and pat dry with paper towels. Can be prepped up to one day ahead and refrigerated in a suitable container.

2. When ready to prepare the shrimp, thread on skewers. Place in a shallow glass or ceramic dish large enough to hold the skewers. In a mixing bowl, combine marinade ingredients and stir to mix. Pour marinade over shrimp and let marinate for 20-30 minutes. Turn the shrimp in the marinade from time to time.

3. Preheat grill. Spray or brush grill with oil. Cook shrimp about 1 1/2 minutes on each side or until they turn pink and opaque in their shells. Remove shrimp from skewers and serve them warm in their shells.

To broil: Preheat broiler to highest setting. Rest the ends of the skewers over a disposable foil broiling pan so that the shrimp are suspended in midair, and place them about 1 inch from the source of heat. Broil for 1 1/2 minutes, flip the skewers over, and baste with some of the marinade. Broil for another 1 to 1 1/2 minutes and serve.

Note: If broiling shrimp, don't forget they're in the broiler!

SUN-DRIED TOMATO TAPENADE WITH GOAT CHEESE CROSTINI
Be sure to use oil packed tomatoes for the flavor to fully develop. The tapenade can be refrigerated for up to a week in a suitable container.
Makes about 35-40 crostini.

4 ounces sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, finely chopped
Zest of one lemon
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1 teaspoon shallot, finely chopped
Freshly ground pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

To serve
2 ounces goat cheese in log form
1 thin baguette, store-bought crostini, or bagel crisps
2-3 cloves garlic, halved with skin on
Black Greek olive garnish (optional)

1. Combine the ingredients for the tapenade in a food processor fitted with steel knife and slowly add enough olive oil to moisten.

2. If preparing your own crostini, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Thinly slice the baguette on the bias, spread on a cookie sheet and toast until golden brown, about 8-10 minutes. Remove from oven and rub the cut side of the garlic halves over each toasted slice while still warm. These can be made ahead and kept in a clean, waxed paper-lined cookie tin for several days.

3. When ready to serve, top each crostini with a thin layer of goat cheese and a dollop of tapenade. Arrange on a platter and garnish with olives for serving.

PHYLLO CHEESE STICKS
These cheese sticks are fun, easy to make, and addictive.
Makes 25-30 cheese sticks.

25-30 quartered sheets of phyllo, cut lengthwise
Vegetable oil
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

1. Remove phyllo from box, unwrap, then unroll on a clean dry work surface. With a sharp slicing knife, cut phyllo layers in half, and then cut lengthwise in half again. Cover the number of sheets you will work on with a lightly dampened towel or plastic wrap. Roll up remaining sheets and return to its plastic casing and box. Refrigerate until ready to use again.

2. Place a small bowl of oil next to where you work. Working with one sheet of phyllo at a time, toss a light sprinkle of oil over the surface of the dough. It's not necessary to completely cover the sheet with oil. Then coat with an even layer of grated Parmesan cheese. Starting at one end, roll the sheet into a cigar shape and transfer to a lightly greased baking sheet. Continue until all are done.

3. Place cheese sticks in preheated oven for 10-12 minutes until golden brown and serve warm or at room temperature. Can be prepared up to several days ahead and stored in a wax paper lined cookie tin.