Dan's Papers - June 20, 2008 - Over the Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

This week has been a bit cooler, but we've had a hot, steamy and rather disgusting June thus far. Talking to some winemakers and vineyard managers, this heat wave is actually a good thing. May was a bit cooler and less sunny than usual and the grape vines needed this heat to kick start their growth this year.

But, what is good for the grapes can be exhausting for us. Obviously, this isn't red wine weather. When the temperature approaches - and surpasses - 90 degrees, we need wines that will quench our thirst, refresh our palates and cool us down. Oh, and we don't want to pay $20 or more either.

Here are five local wines that I've been enjoying regularly over the past couple of weeks. Throw them in an ice bucket and take them to the beach, to the pool, or just in your backyard on a muggy pre-summer evening. You'll be glad you did.

Roanoke Vineyards 2007 De Rosa Rose ($16). Made by Roman Roth of Wolffer Estate (and their rose just missed making this list), this blend of 36% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Chardonnay was one of my favorite roses last year and the newest release is very similar. At first, the nose is reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc with bright citrus and lightly herbal aromas, but beneath those are scents of juicy peach, wild strawberries and even a little watermelon. There is just a little sweetness here (.5%) but it's barely perceptible because of deliciously mouth-watering acidity. The flavors closely match the nose with grapefruit and lemon zest mingling with peaches and red berries. Well chilled, it's the perfect summer sipper on a hot Long Island weekend.

Martha Clara Vineyards 2007 Pinot Grigio ($16). In the past, I've found this North Fork rendition of the Italian classic a bit neutral and uninteresting, but Martha Clara's new winemaker, Juan Eduardo Micieli-Martinez, has turned it into a wine to worth checking out. All of that classic citrus character is there - coming through as lemon and lemon zest manily - but what sets this apart from the boring lemon-water Pinot Grigios we see most often is a subtle richness and faintly herbal, faintly almondy note on a nice finish. The acidity is terrific and this one tastes better each time I taste it. But the time Labor Day rolls around, it may be sold out, but it will be drinking its best around that time as well. Good right out of the fridge, let it warm just a bit so that you don't miss on some of the secondary flavors.

Macari Vineyards 2007 'Katherine's Field' Sauvignon Blanc ($22). Okay, so this one might be a couple dollars above our self-imposed $20 limit, but this one is worth the extra couple of dollars. It pours an extremely pale greenish-yellow in the glass and offers intense aromas of grapefruit, lemon and lime zest with understated hints of just-cut grass and crushed Thai basil leaves. The palate is mouthwatering crisp and similarly citrusy, with fresh grapefruit and sweet lime flavors accented by a seawater minerality and more of that grassy-herbal character - but not too much. The balance between flavor, texture and lively acidity is impressive and the finish lingers nicely. If you want to discuss this wine in terms of global style, I'd say that it lives somewhere between Sancerre and New Zealand.