Dan's Papers - June 22, 2007 -

I'm a Spinnakers convert. The newly remodeled Spinnakers on Main Street in Sag Harbor looks nothing like its previous incarnation. With a fresh menu chock full of tasty treats like brick oven pizzas and grilled kiwi glazed shrimp, there is a fantastic reason to re-visit old friends at Spinnakers.

When a mini loaf of fresh, warm sourdough bread was placed in front of me I knew I was in for a meal not to be forgotten. The recently renovated Spinnakers pairs the exposed brick walls with oversized modern lamps and touches of brass for a sleek nautical feel. Watch pizzas cook in the back while relaxing in this calm, clean new open space. The original hand carved bar remains a beautiful focal point for the room and still serves up your favorite dinner for one along with beer, wine and spirits. The brick oven pizzas are a welcome addition to the revised menu. I sampled the meatball, Italian sausage and pepperoni pizza; and was instantly hooked. Somehow the chefs at Spinnakers achieved the perfect balance of sauce, cheese and meat on each of the six slices. The flavorful, crisp crust was just right. Not too thick and not too thin and the marinara sauce had a rich tomato flavor without being muddled by too many spices.

Other available varieties of brick oven pizza include: margherita marinara; eggplant, black olives and ricotta with marinara and mozzarella; escargot, gorgonzola and tomato demi-glaze with mozzarella; grilled vegetable (broccoli, zucchini, yellow squash, roasted red peppers) with marinara, goat cheese and mozzarella; grilled portabella mushroom and goat cheese with marinara and mozzarella. Perhaps the most unique is the barbeque duck pizza featuring a crispy duck paired with a tangy barbeque sauce topped with goat cheese and mozzarella. Brick oven pizza prices range from $12-15.

I highly recommend both the fried calamari and the baked clams as appetizers. The fried calamari is the best I have ever tasted. Served with a savory and spicy chipolte marinara, the calamari was lightly battered and not greasy. Meanwhile, the fennel crusted baked clams were surprisingly little neck clams (how's that for a nice change?), and were more clam than breading (another nice change). And don't worry about it if you're not a fan of fennel, it's more of an accent here than a lingering taste. The appetizers are all about seafood and include: New England clam chowder, shrimp pot stickers, steamed mussels meuniere, local steamers, little neck clams, local oysters and peppercorn crusted tuna. Prices range from $4.75-12.

Trying to eat light? The refreshing mesclun salad is served with a slice of creamy goat cheese and a sweet preserved lemon dressing and was my pick for best salad. Next I dined on the grilled kiwi glazed shrimp and watermelon served with jasmine rice and squash. The shrimp had a smooth sweet flavor and the jasmine rice was a scrumptious side dish. The grilled herbed squash and zucchini rounded out this fantastic meal. The rack of lamb was juicy and tender and is flavored with a satisfying mix of rosemary and sage; while the filet mignon was cooked to perfection and perfectly peppered, lobster tail and garlicky shrimp scampi of the surf and turf entree make it a fine dinner pick. But the hands down winner of the night was the clambake special. A large whole lobster, steamers, mussels and sausage this is not your usual clambake. This was the biggest clambake I have ever seen. Much more than one person can devour alone. Served with a garlic broth in addition to the typical melted butter, bring an army to finish this one.

Don't forget your sweet finish. Desserts are my favorite part of any meal and the chocolate brownie cake at Spinnakers was no disappointment. This dense chocolate brownie has serious milk chocolate flavor and is topped with sliced almonds and whipped cream. The butterscotch creme brulee was flavorful and creamy; while the three chocolate mousse with raspberry sauce was light and airy. I also sampled the apple tarte with apricot glaze which was spicy, sweet and buttery. The dessert menu offers other temptations including: poached pear with chocolate sauce and raspberry puree; pistachio gelato, key lime pie, cheesecake, and tartufo. With so many yummy options, dessert might just be the hardest choice of the whole meal! Dessert prices range from $5-8.

Spinnakers is located at 63 Main Street in Sag Harbor. Call 631-725-9353 for reservations.