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Issue #13, June 22, 2007

Book Review: the flexitarian table

With more than 100 recipes and 40 seasonally-based menus, Peter Berley shows you how to make "convertible" meals that can be prepared using a vegetable or meat protein (or both!), hearty vegetarian meals that will please meat lovers (yeah, right, you're thinking, but just you wait) and menus featuring fish, poultry, or even red meat, with ample sides that can double as mains in his innovative and much needed new cookbook, The Flexitarian Table.

Berley defines an increasing breed of diners, known as the "flexitarians," people who are mainly vegetarian but occasionally enjoy fish or meat or the (rarer) meat-hound who enjoys a meatless meal.

Berley's Indian-inspired Spring option sounds like just the ticket. Since many Indians are vegetarian, the combinations of vegetable and starch, not to mention the wild assortment of spices they use, are rich enough to stand on their own. Start with naan (delicious, doughy bread) and roasted carrots flavored with cumin and lime. For the main course, enjoy a lentil and rhubarb curry with potatoes and peas. Combine this with a cucumber lime raita (wow, yum). So, here's the plan: soak the lentils, make the naan dough and let it rise (or make the dough up to two days ahead and refrigerate but bring to room temperature before proceeding), make the raita and refrigerate (or make just before serving), cook the curry, then shape and bake the naan and lastly, roast the carrots. That's the overall plan, now here's the recipe!

Lentil and Rhubarb Curry

Spice Blend
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground fennel
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Lentils
2 tablespoons ghee
1 medium onion, chopped
2 large shallots, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon ginger
sea salt
3 garlic cloves
2 cups green cabbage
2 cups diced potatoes
1 1/2 cups thinly sliced rhubarb
1 cup French lentils, soaked for 4-6 hours and drained
2 teaspoons dark brown sugar
1 bay leaf
1 cup peas

Cucumber Lime Raita

1 cup finely chopped, peeled, and seeded cucumber
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh limejuice
2 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon coriander
sea salt
2 cups Greek yogurt
1/4 cup fresh cilantro
freshly ground black pepper
Naan Bread
1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
3/4 cup warm water
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 1/2 cups unbleached flour
1 cup whole wheat bread flour
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
cornmeal, for dusting
Carrots
1 pound fresh baby carrots, scrubbed and trimmed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper flakes

Berley is equally accommodating for the less ambitious cook, with features such as Penne with beets, goat cheese, and walnuts. This book is simply irresistible from its' clever layout (arranged by seasons featuring great veggies for each) to it's sophisticated vegetarian and meat dish ideas. Hey, if you can learn how to feed a hungry pack of carnivores and the ultra-annoying vegan dinner guest at the same table, what more could you ask for from a cookbook? Go ahead, plan your next dinner party. You'll surely find a meal, that will please all who attend. For more recipes from Peter Berley, visit www.peterberley.com.

- Lily Betjeman


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