Dan's Papers - June 12, 2009 - Restaurant Review: Ciao Bella Senhora

It's not often I come across an Italian restaurant and walk away satisfied - it's difficult to please an Italian girl with anything but Mama's cooking. When I pulled into Ciao Bella Senhora, my foodie sixth sense had perked right up - I had the feeling that I was going have a good meal. The restaurant, which opened its doors about five months ago, offers a selection of food of the Euro-Americas, with an Italian flair. Owner and Head Chef Americo is no stranger to the restaurant business. With 19 years of experience, he seems to have found the secret to his trade - make fresh, good food, and they'll come back for more.

In true Italian fashion, Ciao Bella Senhora is a family owned and operated business. Chef Americo, along with his wife, daughter and two sons, keep the restaurant feeling like home. The dining room has a European feel - sophisticated and stylish yet welcoming. I stared longingly at the couple already seated by the gorgeous bay window looking out to the patio that, when the weather is nice, would make for a wonderful outdoor dining area.

Jimmy and Chris, our attentive servers, were, of course, part of the family - Chris is one of Chef Americo's sons, and Jimmy is a friend of the family who has been working at the family's restaurants for years.

As a first course, we ordered fried calamari - a favorite of mine that I used to make with my uncle in his restaurant. The best way to cook it is to keep it simple, keep the coating light, and never, ever overcook it or you may as well eat rubber. Ciao Bella's version did not disappoint. Fresh from the fryer, the calamari was light, crisp and perfectly cooked, accompanied by the chef's marinara sauce - one of the best I've ever tasted. Each bite melted in my mouth.

Next came the house specialty, Torta la Senhora, a layered creation consisting of mozzarella and provolone cheeses, prosciutto, salami, roasted peppers, tomatoes, all compressed together and cut like a slice of cake. Drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette, the Torta was an explosion of flavor - the tang from the peppers and the saltiness of the salami and prosciutto were softened by the mild flavor and buttery texture of the cheeses. It was a stunning creation.

The Chef specials all sounded delicious, but I had my eye on the Chicken Portobello, and we also ordered the Rigatoni a la Vodka, an Italian staple. Ciao Bella's version of the classic Vodka sauce was a palate pleaser. It had all of the elements of a rock star dish - creamy and buttery, a little tang from fresh tomatoes, the sharpness of plenty of good Parmesan cheese. It was a perfectly executed dish and the portion was huge - plan on taking leftovers home.

The Chicken Portobello was delicious. The woodsy portobellos were matched with a rich brown pan sauce, and the chicken was perfectly seasoned and sautéed with the mushrooms in such a way that all the flavors mingled together. It was accompanied by a satisfying rice pilaf and a few stalks of firm broccoli.

We made room for dessert: a slice of Cassata cake, which consists of layers of golden cake soaked with rum, cannoli cream, and a layer of a pudding or custard. Typically I like my Cassata cake with a chocolate ganache, and this one came out with whipped cream, but it was still a winner. Next time I go to Ciao Bella, I'll try the wood charcoal smoked barbeque chicken. The restaurant now offers Portuguese Sundays - an array of specialty dishes cooked Churrasco style.

Ciao Bella Senhora, 322 West Montauk Highway, Hampton Bays NY 11946. Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Wednesday through Friday, Noon to 10 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. - 11 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Closed Mondays. www.ciaobellasenhora.com or call 631-728-2218.