Dan's Papers - June 12, 2009 - The Grille at Fisherman's Rest

Finding out the stories behind the men and women who own or cook at the varied restaurants that grace the North Fork is always fascinating. But you would have to go a long way to beat the difference between co-owner Frank Creighton's former life and now, as he and his team bring the venerable Fisherman's Rest back to life. Frank was based in Washington D.C., in charge of the anti-piracy division of the music industry and you can only surmise the difficulties involved in trying to keep ahead of those determined to make illegal recordings and downloads available around the world. Running a restaurant still poses problems but hopefully not as complex!

Fisherman's Rest is one of those Long Island restaurants that has been around for several decades in one form or another and a couple of years ago, when Frank and his partners bought the property, they soon realized that a complete re-launch was needed so they closed down for a while. The new Grille at Fisherman's Rest opened earlier this year and Frank and his Executive Chef, Calvin Kerr, formerly of Gurney's Inn have kept much of the old menu that the local patrons enjoyed blended with some new dishes designed to appeal as well to the visiting population.

The menu really does offer something for all tastes, from burgers and sandwiches to a full a la carte selection. We started with Calvin's signature creamy clam chowder that was full of rich deep tastes with a touch of Creole influence. Calvin's wife, Teresa Londono, is also the pastry chef and her delicious bread was a great accompaniment to the soup. Calvin also has a variant on the ubiquitous popcorn shrimp by replacing the shrimp with langoustine served with a tangy dipping sauce. Again, another great way to start your meal.

From the salad selection we chose the spinach salad which was very good with its accompanying walnuts and bacon pieces, but we were a little thrown because we really had not fully read the description and were surprised by the warm Dijon dressing.

For our main courses we chose the scallops in a delicate citrus chili vinaigrette that came perfectly cooked with an excellent sauce. The rice and accompanying squash also were well cooked and the whole dish showcased Calvin's culinary skills. The new 'Grille' obviously has to feature some good grilled dishes to justify its new name so the daily special of strip steak had to be the other choice and we were glad that we did because the meat was very well trimmed and full of flavor and again Calvin's sauce served with it was a perfect complement. The large portion of fries was to die for, certainly some of the very best. Crisp and greaseless on the outside and soft and tender internally. These are going to be in great demand throughout the summer.

All the desserts are made in house by Teresa and the list reads very appealingly from the chocolate oblivion torte to the quaintly named, 'Teresa's Bit O'Religion Amaretto Cheesecake.' But despite their lure we settled for sharing the apple cranberry puff that demonstrated that almost certainly, whichever dessert you choose, you won't be disappointed.

Apart from having something for every taste, this is a restaurant where you really don't have to ask about opening times because it is there seven days a week from 11.30 a.m. till midnight.

Prices are very realistic with appetizers ranging from $3.95 to $12.95. Main courses and pastas are from $12.95 to $24.95 for the special bouillabaisse. Desserts are $5.95. The wine list is being rewritten and they are looking to showcase local wineries.

The new Grille at Fisherman's Rest serves good food, well priced in pleasant surroundings and is family friendly, which taken all together should satisfy the long standing clientele of the old restaurant as well as attracting visitors to the area.