Dan's Papers - June 13, 2008 - Raving Beaty by Janet Flora

Some women can do it in the dark, some can do it with the aid of any reflective surface, and still others need a magnifying glass. But whichever category you're in when applying lipstick, you might want to follow the advice of Kathy O'Donnell, a freelance New York City makeup artist who works regularly on Saturday Night Live. "The most common mistake women make," says O'Donnell, "is not moisturizing or conditioning their lips regularly and before applying lipstick." One of O'Donnell's favorite products for moisturizing lips is Olay's Lip Regenerist, which is available in most chain drugstores. O'Donnell suggests applying the product at night, and again when moisturizing during the day, and always before applying lipstick. "This," she says, "will keep any lipstick or lip liners from drying out your lips. Be careful, however, of products like Carmex that contain camphor, which is really made for healing cold sores, and can dry lips. And products that are too gelatinous used under lipstick can cause the lipstick to coagulate or just slide right off. Look for lip conditioners that have a creamy base. Estee Lauder makes a lip conditioner, which contains shea butter and has a SPF of 15, and it's packaged in a traditional lipstick tube for easy use.

O'Donnell believes lip liner is a must for those with thin or less voluptuous lips.

For a natural lip O'Donnell likes lip pencils that resemble the actual pigment of most people's lips. Two of her favorites are 2C and 3C by Makeup Forever. She says, "Never draw over your natural lip line, this will look artificial, and instead accentuate what you have."

To obtain "a no makeup look," O'Donnell uses these pencils as a liner then fills in the entire lip with the pencil as if it were a lipstick. "But," she says, "Don't try this without a lip conditioner under it or you'll get an uneven result." Even if you like a creamy or glossy lip, applying the lip liner all over the lips will give any lipstick or gloss staying power. If you have just eaten and don't have the opportunity to apply lip conditioner, you migh want to put your lipstick or gloss on first and then line your lips after - this will make the application of the pencil easier.

For those endowed with full lips lip liner is not a necessity unless you want to use it for longer lasting color. But O'Donnell cautions: "Even those with the lushest lips should avoid products that are too gooey or sparkly or you could start to look like a caricature."

When it comes to color, O'Donnell believes it's a personal choice depending on your skin tone. Certainly darker shades can be aging and seem harsh on the 40-plus woman, but something too pale can make anyone look washed out. And as far as the classic red lipstick - go for it - if it's appropriate for the occasion, but just make sure the application is flawless. While it's easy to apply lipstick directly from the tube, when it comes to reds you might want to use a pointy, slightly stiff lip brush for precision.

"The makeup company Tart makes great chap sticks with color and a SPF of 15, these are great for an hint of color during sports and the beach," says O'Donnell. Smashbox makes a tinted lipstick treatment with the same SPF. The great thing about these products is that they don't require any priming of the lips, nor do you need a steady hand, in fact you may be able to apply them in the dark.

Janet Flora writes lifestyle and beauty features, and is a former contributor to Make-up Artist and Health magazines. A creative writing teacher and fiction writer, she spends her time in New York and Sag Harbor.