Dan's Papers - June 15, 2007 - Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge

Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge
Water Mill Square Suite 5A
Water Mill
631-726-2606

Last Friday night, Victoria Cooper and I stopped in to the new home of creative food in Water Mill, Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge. As soon as we crossed the threshold, we knew we were not in your typical Hamptons restaurant. The Mexican tile floor and subtle candlelight immediately set the mood for the sultry, playful menu and the saltwater fish tank bar made us feel as if we were at a chic island oasis.

We were seated by a lovely young hostess and presented with the extensive drink menu. Victoria and I sampled two delicious concoctions, the Shipwreck and the Muse Martini. Our drinks came in beautiful, sturdy glasses with stems thick enough to wrap your hand around in bright, translucent glass. The Shipwreck is sweet, strong and bright Midori green - don't drink more than one if you're driving. The Muse Martini is more tart and would be the perfect fruity treat during a hot summer lunch.

The menu is extensive and so varied that we couldn't decide if we wanted to go with Asian-inspired dishes, Southwestern or good ol' American cuisine, so we ordered one of each. The chef, Matthew Guiffrida, sent over the "Super Sonic Malt, Burger and Fries," a miniature cheeseburger on a rectangular platter accompanied by a miniature strawberry malt and a tiny packet of crisp French fries. The cheeseburger was soft and tasty and the flavor was a dead ringer for a California-style In-n'-Out burger. Next, we tried the "Tuna Palooza," a beautifully presented platter with small servings of Sesame seared Ahi tuna with sriracha aioli and pea sprout salad, tuna sashimi with spicy tuna mousse on carrot ginger espuma, a sugar cane tuna lollipop with sesame ginger jus and mango tuna tartare with guacamole emulsion. The fish was firm and bright red and the various sauces, mousse and espuma were delightful to pair with the four unique tuna preparations.

The "Curried Honey and Soy Seared Scallop Lollypops" finished off our first course beautifully. The scallops were large and nicely glazed with a sweet and tangy coating on the outside and plump, clean meat in the center. The seaweed salad added a salty contrast to the sweet honey-glazed scallops.

For our entrees, we had an even harder time picking only two. While the "Southwestern Style Wild Sockeye Salmon" and "Wasabi Pea Crusted Long Island Duck Au Poivre" sounded tempting, we settled on the "Horseradish and Gorgonzola Crusted, New York Strip" and the "Yummy Grilled Pork Tummy (A.K.A. Pork Belly)." I had never tried pork belly before, but as I built the perfect bite of Hickory Smoked Bacon, Sweet Potato "Risotto" with Apple Maple BBQ Aujus and tender, juicy pork, I was sold. Luckily, it tasted even better than it looked and I had enough to eat half of it and take the other half home for breakfast the next morning. Even after a night in the fridge, I heated it up in a pan and it was spectacular.

Victoria adored the New York Strip, which had a generous coating of strong Gorgonzola and was paired with a Fried Tuscan White Bean and Beef Jerky, Tater Tot Hash and a Tawny Port Demi Glace. Amazingly, the complex blend of flavors only enhanced the robust cut's flavor. I had to take a bite, of course, and although I wouldn't have traded the sweet "Pork Belly" for anything else on the menu, the steak was definitely worth trying. The contrast of the Demi Glace and Gorgonzola, cut by the tender beef, would be the perfect remedy for a tired, hungry beachcomber after a day braving the waves.

Victoria and I tried to resist dessert, but soon a "Fluffer Nutter" was placed on our table and we dug in with gleeful abandon. Not really a peanut butter and fluff sandwich, this fancy fluffer is a tower of Peanut Butter Mousse and a Torched, Homemade Marshmallow atop a little disc of French toast. This is the most decadent dessert I have tasted in quite a while and I enjoyed every bit of it.

Once our plates were clean, Victoria and I lingered to soak up the ambiance and watch as the bar and dining room filled up as the sky got darker.

This restaurant has a great future ahead of it as both a dinner spot in between both ends of the Hamptons and a cool, sultry after-hours hangout, complete with an intriguing bar scene and a menu that entices its patrons to sample lots of little dishes, pass plates and indulge.