You can sit indoors in the coolness and enjoy the Chowder Pot's comfortable atmosphere, but at this time of the year, sitting outside on a warm sunny day, on their splendid deck, with its wonderful view of Peconic Bay and Shelter Island, while sipping a glass of wine and looking through an imaginative menu to decide what you fancy to eat, really can't be beaten.

The wine that Dean Eichorn, co-owner with Jim Dubovick of the Chowder Pot, wanted us to try on this visit was their new house red, Silver King, specially made for them by Eric Fry at Lenz Winery. It is a blend of cabernet franc, merlot, petit vedot and malbec and the result, as you would expect from Eric, is a very drinkable wine that is fruit forward with a pleasant bouquet and long finish that is very adaptable, either to drink alone or with food such as salmon, or tuna or indeed a good steak.

Jim Mirondik is now in his 13th year as chef and he provides food for all tastes. We started with a selection of oysters and clams on the half shell. Both were superbly fresh, redolent of the sea and were a great way to start a meal. From the other appetizers we chose a dish prepared by broiling a portobello mushroom topped with blue crab meat and three cheeses and roasted red peppers. This combination really worked well and all the tastes blended into a pleasant fullness, without swamping the delicacy of the excellent crabmeat.

Next, we sampled one of their range of famous chowders and the New England clam version did not disappoint. It was creamy but not too thick, without any cloying tastes and included a lot of clams. I don't think you could ever go wrong with any of their soups based on our visits here. Main courses come with a salad so we shared one made from a great selection of crisp fresh greens and the house dressing known as 'French vinaigrette' was great. It is a closely kept secret of Dean's and we would strongly recommend it as a choice, with its tangy blend of fruit flavors with a touch of heat.

Creative ways with fish and seafood are a major part of their cuisine and the grilled rainforest glazed tuna was a good example of this. A large piece of perfectly rare tuna (as requested) had a very tasty and piquant glaze with a blend of sweetness, fruit and just the right amount of heat from some fresh chilies. Sunday is 'Surf & Turf' night and all of the fish and shellfish selections are paired with a large flavorful strip steak, and our juicy lobster tail went well with it. The portions here are really generous as is the hospitality and warmth of welcome.

The desserts are mainly made in house and the selection that Kim, our attentive waitress, read to us all sounded delicious, but we could only manage a taste of an exceptional carrot cake with our usual espresso.

Prices here are very reasonable, considering the quality and quantity of food and that great view. The restaurant is very family friendly and casual. Appetizers range from $6.95 to $13.95: main courses from $17.95 to $23.95 and includes salad and vegetables; you can build your own pasta special our have a sandwich or burger (the French fries are simply superb!). House wines by Lenz are $8 a glass and wines by the bottle range from $17 and up.

Dean and his colleagues believe in offering a range of dining options. Monday through Thursday, you can have a burger and movie ticket for $14.95; Monday is also Pasta night and on Thursday is the very popular all you can eat BBQ night. Live music is played on Friday through Sunday and from July 4th the restaurant will be open seven days a week.

The Chowder Pot Pub has now been in business on the waterfront in Greenport since 1978, a wonderful record in an age where restaurant longevity is notoriously brief. However, when you look at the combination of good food, friendly service, family friendly pricing and of course the priceless location, you can only be glad that it is still going strong and hopefully will do so for many years to come.

- Roy Bradbrook

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