Dan's Papers - June 6, 2008 -

After traveling to Italy in the late 1970s and through the '80s, I tried to reproduce the food I ate there upon returning home. I quickly realized that it would be difficult because the recipes greatly depended on the raw ingredients. While I understood that fresh produce was important for my replication, the products that are at an Italian farming community's disposal were not locally available for me. Since then, of course, farmers markets have sprouted up on city streets and in town squares across the nation. The available fruits and vegetables have been planted, grown and harvested with only freshness and flavor in mind - not shelf life or shipping schedules. Here on the East End, however, we do live in a farming community. There's a whole range of fresh food out here. Picking up and preparing local produce simply brings out the entire culinary experience, engages your senses and enriches your life. When I pick up my CSA order (Community Supported Agriculture) at the Green Thumb, an organic market in Water Mill, or visit some of the other local farm stands, I make a connection with the farmers and form a partnership. In choosing locally grown products, we support our agriculture and our environment.

My market basket at the Green Thumb yielded rhubarb, spring onions and asparagus. Inspiration took me directly into the kitchen, where I prepared tart rhubarb compote with plenty of refrigerator shelf life to marry well with all manner of grilled meats. I sliced and roasted the shiny white spring onion bulbs with olive oil and thyme leaves. Then, I tossed the onion with sautéed mushrooms and spread the mixture over a fresh pizza crust. For that night I prepared orecchiette with fresh ricotta and asparagus. We ate a great dinner, with some goodies waiting in the wings, of course.

RHUBARB COMPOTE
The bold tartness of rhubarb makes a versatile and refreshing side for grilled meats.
Yield: about 8 ounces

1 pound rhubarb, leaves discarded
2/3 cup sugar
1 whole clove
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
Grated zest of lemon
Scant tablespoon lemon juice

1. Rinse rhubarb stalks and cut into 1-inch pieces. Put into a heavy saucepan with the sugar, cloves, cinnamon, lemon zest and juice. Cover and simmer over low heat until the rhubarb has broken down completely, about 12-15 minutes, then stir to mix. Discard clove then taste to adjust sweetness. Can prepare up to one week ahead. Refrigerate, covered in a suitable container until ready to use.

ROAST SPRING ONIONS
Spring onions are pulled when their tops are still green. They have a definite bulb formation with the same concentric formation as 'dry' onions. The varieties pulled before the bulb has formed are scallions.
Yield: About 1 cup

1 bunch spring onions
Coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

1. Trim and discard the onions' lengthy green leaves. Slice the onions into thirds crosswise. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Sprinkle the slices with coarse salt, freshly ground pepper, fresh thyme leaves and olive oil.

2. Place in preheated oven and roast about 35-40 minutes. Some outer rings may blacken, which can be discarded. Can be made up to several days ahead. Refrigerate in a suitable container.

For the sauce
1/2 pound fresh ricotta
1/2 cup light cream
1/2 pound asparagus
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley

For the pasta
1 pound orecchiette
2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt for the pasta water

1. Drain ricotta in a sieve over a bowl in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Discard the drained liquid and place ricotta and cream in a saucepan. Stir to mix and simmer, stirring over low heat for 3-4 minutes. Season ricotta mixture with salt, pepper and parsley and stir to mix.

2. Break asparagus spears where they naturally bend and discard tough ends. Cut vegetable into two-inch pieces then place in a skillet barely covered with water and bring to the boil. Cook asparagus at a brisk simmer until tender about 3-4 minutes, then drain and pat dry. Add cooked asparagus to ricotta mixture.

3. Meanwhile, bring a large, 5 quart pot of water to the boil. Add salt and put in the pasta all at once. Stir the pasta to separate and maintain a boil while the pasta is cooking. Cook for about 9-12 minutes or until al dente. Add about 1/4 cup pasta water to the ricotta/asparagus mixture before draining.

4. Drain the pasta in a colander and immediately transfer to a warm serving bowl. Pour over the ricotta and asparagus mixture and gently toss to completely coat with the sauce. Serve at once.