Dans Papers - June 8, 2007 - Over the Barrel... Raphael Brings Four for Food

One of the greatest things about Long Island wines is their food-friendly attributes. Many are fruit-forward, but they almost never plunge into the jammy, "fruit bomb" territory of many New World wines. Alcohol levels usually hover around the 12-13% level as well--so you can have two or three glasses of wine with dinner and not need a nap. Cool nights and ocean breezes help growing grapes retain their natural acidity too-- another great benefit for those who like wine with food. A move away from heavy new oak--or at least more judicious use of said oak--also results in wines ideally suited to table time.

Raphael, and its winemaker Richard Olsen-Harbich, have four recent releases that really fit the bill for summer-time table duty.

Olsen-Harbich, who has been making wine on Long Island for nearly 30 years, is unrelenting in his dedication to Long Island's grape-growing abilities. His wines reflect our region's distinctiveness--its terroir if you will. He doesn't try to make California wines. He doesn't try to make Bordeaux wines. He makes Long Island wines--it's that simple.

A clean, refreshing new white, the 2006 Grand Cru Chardonnay ($16) is made entirely in stainless steel tanks--the way the winemaker thinks local chardonnay shines most brightly. The nose is somewhat austere, but offers faintly fruity pear and melon aromas with a wonderful smell of the sea in the background. That almost-salty minerality carries through and drives the palate with the pear and melon character taking a step back. Medium bodied with substantial--but balanced--natural acidity, this would make a great house wine this summer. The finish even lingers longer than expected.

Chardonnay is the most planted white grape in North Fork vineyards, but some of the most exciting wines I've tasted lately are made with sauvignon blanc, including Olsen-Harbich's Raphael 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($22). If the Grand Cru's nose is the shy guy at the party, this wine's nose is the party animal that everyone knows. It is explosively aromatic with fresh-cut grass, kiwi, gooseberry and grapefruit demanding attention. There's even some of that 'cat pee' aroma that is found in many New Zealand sauvignons. Intensely flavorful in the mouth, it's extremely citrusy and grassy with tart, snappy acidity and a terrific, lengthy finish. A delicious, appetite-whetting wine to be sure.

Much like sauvignon blanc's relationship to chardonnay locally, cabernet franc often plays second (or even third) fiddle to merlot, but not when it comes to Raphael's 2005 Cabernet Franc ($18), it is a star in its own right. This wine captures the ripeness of a tremendous vintage and purely expresses why this grape is so well suited to Long Island. Many local winemakers use plenty of oak when making their cab franc (with widely varying results), but this wine is made without oak, resulting in what may well be my favorite local red under $20. The nose is loaded with red cherries and raspberries that are accented by floral spice and earthy notes. The palate is richly flavorful with cherry, spice and earth and pleasant structure--the result of acidity and skin tannin rather than overbearing oak.

The last member of this foodsome foursome is Raphael's second-label 2004 Estate Merlot ($16), which very well may be the best second-label merlot in the local market. It is a medium-bodied red with black raspberry and black cherry flavors, is soft and fruity with nice earthy-leather notes that keep it from being simple or boring.

For more information, visit the tasting room in Peconic or visit www.raphaelwine.com.