Dan's Papers - May 29, 2009 - Love Lane Kitchen

It is now three years sine Mike Avella opened his restaurant on Mattituck's charmingly old-fashioned Love Lane. In that time he and his enthusiastic and charming staff have created something to be very proud of. Since we were last there, the interior has been significantly upgraded, their liquor license has been obtained and they have managed to create an ambience, which is both welcoming and simply elegant.

Ben Warner is the new Executive Chef and is a graduate of the Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon, and has cooked in Seattle and Manhattan before coming here. The new menu is the result of close collaboration between him and Mike and they make changes to reflect the availability of local produce and also to introduce new ideas. Straightaway we saw several appetizer dishes that simply cried out to be sampled. The shaved baby artichoke salad was an excellent start with a crisp astringency that really cleansed the palate. Another salad, but one with a totally different set of tastes, was the wilted spinach and mushroom served with a feta vinaigrette and topped by a perfectly cooked poached egg. When the egg is broken and the colors and tastes blend, this is a super salad and good enough to be a house signature dish. Finally came a stew of clams and chorizo with garlic toast points that really worked. It would have been only too easy for the clams to be swamped by the saltiness and strong taste of the chorizo but this dish showed how a talented chef can bring such dissimilar items together to create a dish where the blend is greater than the sum of the individual components. True synergy.

Selection of our entrées also posed problems. In the end we settled for a grilled swordfish that turned out to be without doubt one of the best ever. Swordfish can so easily be overcooked but this was incredibly moist and light. Duck tagine is not your standard Long Island duck with a fruity sauce, good though that often is. A tagine is a North African pot, which is used to cook food for a long time. The bell shaped tagine was presented at the table and the tender duck cooked with almonds, citrus and bell pepper and many different herbs and spices was fragrant and had enough spiciness to give the dish a nice warmth. We also found some space to taste a vegetarian dish of fresh crepes rolled around braised wild mushrooms with leeks and vermouth. This was so good and shows how vegetarian food can truly de innovative and very tasty.

Desserts are made by General Manager Jennilee Morris's mother and the lemon semi-freddo we enjoyed was decadently wonderful with its soft richness and beautiful tangy citrus taste. This brought a very tasty and enjoyable meal to a close as we sipped espresso coffee that also displayed the talents of Mike and his staff in the art of coffee making. Coffee is a significant part of the operation as they source, roast and grind coffee for retail sale, as well as for restaurant use. Mike loves to talk coffee so never be afraid to ask about the dos and don'ts of coffee preparation.

Not content with running a restaurant that opens every day for breakfast and lunch and currently, Wednesday through Sunday for dinner, plus the thriving coffee business, they also have a growing catering business that will cater for casual style buffet events for up to 100 people. For Valentine's Day they offered to deliver (or for pick up) a special 'Breakfast in Bed' package of quiche, French toast, pastries etc. that must have charmed the fortunate recipients.

Where else are you going to find Atlantic salmon crusted with an Egyptian blend of spices called Dukkar? Appetizers range from $10 to $12: entrées from $12 to $26. The wine list is short and well chosen with wines from Long Island and Italy only. By the glass they range from $7 to $10 and bottles start at $18. It would be hard to imagine any group of people more upbeat, professional and dedicated in their approach to giving their customer a great meal. By any standards, Love Lane Kitchen is now one of the best eating places on eastern Long Island for quality and value. In a previous review I commented that this is a restaurant I would love to have in my hometown and I feel this even more strongly after this last visit.