Dans Papers - June 1, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

It's feel-good time just to see the many colors of spring visible at farmers markets and farm stands that have opened here on the East End. With longer, sunny days warming us we are in prime time to enjoy the local bounty fresh from the growers.

I recently joined the Green Thumb Organic Market's Community Supported Agriculture (CSA). CSA exists in many places in the country and is a way of supporting local farms in their endeavor to bring to the public the freshest and finest produce through the seasons. Early June pickings at the Green Thumb in Water Mill will yield the sweetest lettuces, tender asparagus, "summer peas" and the first strawberries of the season, red, lush and juicy.

Mesclun are greens that are grown together to include an assortment of lettuces and are best purchased from local or organic farms. Lettuces in a mix from three thousand miles away could possibly include a strain of greens detrimental to our health. A simple mesclun salad of crisp greens dressed with light vinaigrette can become a daily habit. Embellish the salad if you will with nuggets of creamy goat cheese or a rich gorgonzola. A composed salad of purple-headed asparagus becomes something uncommon when dressed with caper vinaigrette and garnished with julienne of roasted sweet pepper. And the green shell pea is just one of a variety of edible peas that is literally here today and gone tomorrow. The vegetable needs warmth but not heat and so its tiny time frame is late spring to early summer. Combine them with different varieties - thereby less shelling to do - and create an assemblage with sugar snaps and snow peas.

With infectious diseases and environmental health issues on the rise it has never been more important to eat locally. Supporting our local farmers and preparing foods from the good earth surrounding us is not only good for our health but it keeps money in the local economy. Happy seasonal eating!

Mesclun, salad greens of Provencal origin, is derived from the term Mecla meaning to mix. Today the mix is grown together to include an assortment of greens to accommodate a variety of color, texture and flavor. Mesclun is generally dressed with a light dressing of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper to as not to obscure its delicate flavors.
Serves 2-4

1/4-1/2 pound mesclun greens, washed and spin-dried
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse (kosher) salt
3/4-1 tablespoon imported red wine or balsamic vinegar
Freshly ground pepper

1. Spread greens on a double length of paper towels. Roll up and wrap greens to absorb excess moisture. If preparing ahead place in a Zip-loc bag and chill until ready to serve.

2. When ready to serve transfer greens to a salad bowl to dress. To describe how to simply dress a salad tilt the olive oil over the greens and in a gentle rotary motion pour the oil in a slow steady stream beginning at the outer perimeter towards the center. Toss the greens with the oil which can stand for up to ten minutes without getting soggy. Measure the salt into the bowl of a tablespoon measure and add vinegar to the salt. Swish the vinegar to dissolve the salt and quickly repeat the same circular movement over the greens; add several grinds of peppercorns and toss well to mix. Serve at once.

1 pound peas of different varieties
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
Unsalted butter to taste
Chopped herbs, basil, mint and/or chives

1. String snow peas and sugar snap peas if using; shuck shelling peas. Bring a pot of water to the boil and add salt: drop in the peas. Boil until they're bright green and tender about a minute or two. Drain, shake dry and return to the pan they cooked in where they'll finish drying in their own heat. Stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons butter, a little pepper, and whatever fresh herbs appeal to you.

To insure tenderness, choose asparagus that are firm with compact closed tips and stalks that are green almost their entire length.
Serves 8

2 pounds fresh asparagus
Coarse (kosher) salt

CAPER VINAIGRETTE
2-3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons sherry or tarragon vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 cup capers, drained
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

GARNISH
Roasted red peppers or pimentos cut into 1/2-inch strips, optional and additional capers for garnish, optional.

1. Snap off the woody ends of asparagus where they naturally bend. With the tip of a paring knife, trim away the triangular scales along the spear, leaving the tender scales at the head. Rinse clean.

2. Place asparagus spears in a large skillet. Pour over fresh cold water to barely cover and bring to the edge of a boil. Add salt. Adjust heat to a brisk simmer and cook uncovered for 4-8 minutes depending on thickness of asparagus. Do not overcook. Test for doneness with the tip of a knife or press with fingertips. Drain asparagus and cool quickly under a spray of cold water. Spread on a clean kitchen towel and pat dry to absorb excess moisture.

3. Caper Vinaigrette: combine mustard, salt, pepper, vinegar, lemon juice, and capers and stir to mix. Gradually add oil until mixture is thoroughly blended. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary.

4. To Serve: Arrange asparagus on a serving dish so cut ends meet in the center of dish with tips facing out. Place red pepper garnish over cut ends and top with additional capers. Spoon dressing over spears, leaving the tips exposed.