Dan's Papers - May 23, 2008 - The Old Mill Inn Goes Green

The Old Mill Inn Has An Incredible History,
Great Food And Is Good To The Environment

Driving along Sound Avenue from Wading River to Mattituck, a road that the North Fork residents call "the old road," you will experience one of Long Island's most beautiful, pastoral regions as you pass by pastures, fields, farms, nurseries, orchards and wineries. You will also pass the McCombe family's famous Briermere Farms. You will see old houses in which you envision kitchens cooking up fruits of the land and you will have delicious thoughts along this peaceful stretch of countryside where the early, quiet, unhurried spring mornings might be interrupted by a tractor or other farm machine, operated by a hard-working farmer. These men and women are ever planting and attending their fields and dreaming of the harvest to come.

When the road widens at Mattituck, a left turn will take you to the inlet, where nestled between the Mattituck Inlet Marina and Captain Bob's Fishing Fleet, you will find the Old Mill Inn, perched over an estuary in this pristine corner of Long Island. Originally a gristmill constructed in 1812, it was praised as "a relatively rare engineering structure." In 1902 the mill was sold for $300 and converted into a tavern and during Prohibition. Its "drop door" was eagerly visited by boats to collect the "hooch" during low tides. Legend tells us of a beer guzzling pet monkey who died here in the bathroom tower and of Clark Gable and Carol Lombard's romantic interludes and booze.

Several owners have enjoyed operating the inn, regaling in its history and charismatic guests. A few years ago, an amazing group of entrepreneurial professionals searching for a business project happened to spot the Old Mill Inn from the water, decided to dock and stayed for a serendipitous dinner. Decisions were made, contracts were drawn, and in short order they purchased the inn.

Since 2006 Barbara Pepe and Bia Lowe are the two gals of the group who run the day-to-day operation. Today the historic inn specializes in what is called New American Cuisine. Local seafood, vegetables, fruits and wines are on the menu, and yes, there are fabulous steaks, too.

Three dining areas, including the cozy bar with its original fireplace and spindle that turned the mill's wheat and its beams, decorated with carvings of names and initials dating from 1881 is a charming retreat. The indoor dining room, reminiscent of a grand old motor yacht and the spacious deck overlooking the inlet's myriad of boats and wild life exude old world grace and a new global focus.

What makes The Old Mill Inn innovative is its commitment to the Slow Food evolution. A group that began in the late 1980s in Rome who were against "fast foods" and believe that everyone has a right to the pleasures of eating good, clean, fair food. It is their eco-gastronomy belief that recognizes the strong connection between plate and planet. To be able to eat food that tastes good and is produced in a clean way that doesn't harm the environment, animal welfare or our health is their main focus. On June 29th The Old Mill Inn will celebrate its first "Slow Food Dinner."

A very enthusiastic Barbara Pepe also told me that the inn is the first and only certified Green Restaurant on Long Island! The Green Restaurant Association, GRA, is a national, non-profit organization, which provides services in research, consulting, education, marketing and community organizing. Since the restaurant industry represents 10% of the US economy, they must become more environmentally sustainable. Certainly Barbara Pepe's input as a member of GRA is a challenge; every year the re-certification requirements depend upon actual accomplishments.

To date The Old Mill Inn has given up all styrofoam, recycles all cooking oil, which it gives to vineyards to use for bio-diesel fuel to run farm machines, recycles all glassware and cardboard, recycles all paper products, uses energy efficient bulbs wherever possible and plans to continue to do all that is necessary to renew their membership. An awesome implementation indeed but one Barbara feels is worthy of her pledge to honor the inn's unspoiled surroundings!

A special way to treat yourself and your guests this summer will be to visit the inn on Wednesday nights starting in June for their Summer Sunset Dinner and Cruise! A three course dinner for $25 and Captain Bob's one hour cruise for $20 will be a delightful Mattituck evening!

If as M.F.K. Fisher believed--that when we are hungry we look for more than just food-- then The Old Mill Inn is a perfect place to be nourished, and to feel a part of the land and the sea.