Dans Papers - May 25, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Memorial Day is the official observance for decorating the graves of American servicemen and women. It is particularly significant that we also honor those defending our shores today. I began a column with these words five years ago and didn't think that I would repeat them so many years later. To celebrate our fighting men and women abroad I am thinking about what their favorite foods might be - food that they would like to eat and enjoy if they were home - as they should be.

I think they would love to have a properly marinated flank steak seasoned with a spicy dry rub and/or mustardy chicken breasts with scallions and lemon on the grill and an appropriate accompaniment of tasty green beans and fingerling potato salad. So as you prepare to dust off the grill this weekend let's raise a glass of hope for their safe return.

Flank steak has that old-fashioned beefy flavor and chew. This dry, peppery marinade helps to tenderize the meat.
Serves 6

1 2-pound flank steak
3-4 garlic cloves cut into lengthwise slivers
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon dried hot pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch ground cloves

1. With a sharp paring knife make tiny slits in rows on both sides of the steak, about 1-1/2 inches apart. Slide a garlic sliver into each slit on both sides and put the steak in a shallow dish large enough to hold it. Rub a little olive oil into the steak.

2. In a small bowl combine the remaining ingredients and rub the mixture into the steak. Refrigerate, covered, for 4-6 hours. When ready to cook, remove steak from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature.

3. Meanwhile, build a hot fire in your grill until coals are ashen hot or preheat a gas grill to high. Grill the steak on an oiled rack for about 5-6 minutes on each side for medium rare, or until the meat is springy to the touch. Transfer the steak to a platter and let stand for about 5 minutes before slicing. Holding your knife at a 45-degree angle cut thin slices across the grain. Serve at once.

The best thing you can do for chicken is not to overcook it. The marinade helps to keep it moist while cooking.
Serves 6

3 whole chicken breasts split
1 bunch scallions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons grainy Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Trim excess fat from breasts and discard. Rinse clean and pat dry with a paper towel.

2. Place finely chopped scallions in a bowl, add mustard, lemon juice, salt and freshly ground to taste and stir to mix. Whisk in olive oil until mixture is homogenous. Put chicken breasts in bowl and turn to coat in marinade. Marinate for several hours and refrigerate, covered. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

To grill: Preheat grill until coals are ashen hot or a gas grill to medium high. Scrape the marinade from the breasts and set aside for basting. Place chicken breasts skin side up about 3-4 inches from source of heat and grill, covered, about 5 minutes on each side, turning once. Uncover grill, adjust heat to medium and cook for 3-4 minutes on each side. Baste with reserved marinade until skin is crisp and lightly charred. Chicken should be firm but springy to the touch when done. If the breasts are not completely cooked and charring too much, put them in a 300-degree oven for 6-8 minutes to complete cooking.

To broil: Preheat oven broiler. Line a shallow roasting pan with aluminum foil, shiny side down. Arrange chicken breasts in a single layer, skin side up, directly on foil and place about 3-4 inches from source of heat. Broil 5-6 minutes on one side. Turn pieces, baste with marinade, and broil 3-4 minutes on other side. Turn skin side up basting again and broil 1-2 minutes longer until crisp and golden brown.

Note: The recipe also tastes great when prepared ahead to serve at room temperature.

The dense and waxy flesh of the fingerling is perfect for potato salad as it holds its shape. Combined with the Italian flat-podded Romano bean this potato salad evolves into a very "au courant" dish.
Serves 6-8

For the salad
1/2 pound Romano or green beans, topped and tailed
3/4 pound fingerling potatoes, peeled
Coarse (kosher) salt
2 tablespoons dry white wine
3-4 scallions, white and light green part, thinly sliced
2-3 tablespoons freshly chopped dill

For the dressing
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
11/2 tablespoons light mayonnaise
1 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Put beans in a saucepan of boiling salted water to cover and cook about 7 minutes. Drain, dry and allow to cool. Place potatoes in cold water to cover and bring to a boil. Cook about 16-18 minutes or until tender. Drain potatoes well, pat dry and sprinkle with white wine while still warm. Put the beans and potatoes in a mixing bowl. Add the scallions and dill and stir to mix.

2. Mince the garlic with the salt until a smooth paste. Put in a mixing bowl with the mayonnaise and lemon juice. Season with freshly ground pepper and stir to mix. Whisk in the olive oil until completely incorporated. Pour dressing over the salad and carefully stir to mix. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary. Can be prepared ahead. Refrigerate, covered in a suitable container. Serve at room temperature.