Dans Papers - May 25, 2007

With Memorial Day's arrival, we on the East End know it is open season for summer partying. The typical barbecue fare of hotdogs and burgers may be satisfying for a little while, but why not try something new and seasonal? Rolling sushi is a great way to use the bounty that local fisheries and farms provide us during these warm months.

Sushi preparation is remarkably easy in that it requires little equipment. The most important item from your kitchen arsenal is an extremely sharp knife. The absolute necessity of this item cannot be stressed enough. Not only will you use it to cut the fish, but also post-rolling - if your knife is dull, you may push the sushi too hard and squeeze out its contents! Item number two is a bamboo or sushi mat that will be used to prevent slipping and to roll the sushi tightly. If you do not want to use your hands to mash the rice onto the seaweed, pick up a wooden spoon or rice paddle.

Cooking great sushi rice is essential to a top-notch roll, especially because a sushi meal may be more than three-quarters rice - most chefs prepare one cup of cooked rice for each roll. Many stores now sell rice labeled "sushi" right on the bag, but if yours does not, look for short-grain and never use instant! Rinse the rice thoroughly in a colander until the water drains clear and prepare as indicated on the bag. If you have a rice cooker, use it! If you do not, resist peeking into the pot while it cooks. Steam is critical to the rice process and lifting the lid disturbs this. Once the rice is done, let it sit for about fifteen minutes in a large bowl. Prepare a mixture of 2 parts rice vinegar to one part sugar, with a touch of salt (for four cups of uncooked rice, you will need about 1/2 to 1 cup rice vinegar - experiment to suit your tastes). Dump the vinegar mixture over, cover with a damp cloth, and allow to sit for thirty minutes. The rice should appear shiny and have a tart taste.

To create a sushi roll, lay one sheet of nori seaweed with the shiny side down on the mat and a side facing directly towards you. It is crucial that the nori is dry during this part. Most rolls will include rice - that layer should be patted down first and may spread far up the nori. No matter which additional filling ingredients you choose, place them on the side closest to you and lay an evenly dispersed layer. Once you are satisfied with the contents, moisten the edge of the nori furthest from you to help hold the roll stick together. Use both hands and begin to lift the mat edge with your thumbs, holding the inside of the roll with your index fingers. If the roll appears to be moving evenly, continue to lift and fold, moving fingers to the mat and shaping the sushi roll employing gentle pressure. Bring back the mat - make sure the roll is seam side down and cut into pieces (typically, each roll will yield six to eight). Some chefs recommend moistening your knife between each cut to lessen sticking.

What are suitable fillings for the inside of your roll? The most basic roll in America is the California roll, using imitation crab, avocado, cucumber and rice. Some of those weary of sushi may start out with this to avoid raw fish. Another great starter roll is smoked salmon, to which you may add cream cheese or cucumber and apple slices.

Ready for the raw? Great seafood to experiment with first includes tuna, yellowtail and salmon, but your best bet is speaking to your local fishmonger and requesting the freshest, suitable catch of the day. Don't forget to inquire about scallops and clams too! Wasabi, a spicy horseradish condiment that is now widely available, can be spread directly in the roll or served alongside for a traditional bite.

Fish haters or vegetarian visitors have you nervous about your sushi choice? No problem! Vegetable rolls are delicious and sometimes provide the most dramatic presentation. When placing julienne cucumbers, carrots, red peppers and chives on the nori sheet, ensure that a bit of each sticks out of the ends. When you cut the rolls, you will create pieces that are bursting forth with oranges, reds and greens, like a firecracker! Add cooked sweet potato and avocado to create a diversity of texture and kick up the flavor. Seeds and tempura pieces also incorporate additional crunch and bite to the roll.

Whether you choose to roll the sushi yourself or have your guests join in, whether the sushi is the star entree or an appetizer, try some at your next affair. Healthy, fun, versatile and unique, sushi can satisfy every weekend visitor.