Dans Papers - May 25, 2007

Walking up Main Street in Sag Harbor, one passes the Emporium Hardware Store, the great old movie theater, several galleries and perhaps a million nice, little antique shops. But at the far north end, towards the Long Wharf and past the Bay Street Theater, is the cobalt blue awning over the door at B. Smith's.

B. Smith, who can often be seen milling about her restaurant, is a former model and, most recently, a tastemaker, entrepreneur and entertainer. The Sag Harbor location is one of three that she owns (the others are in Manhattan and Washington, D.C.) She is always on the move and was in Washington recently for a gathering that hosted Senator Hillary Clinton and the President of the Bahamas. This week she will be taping a segment for "The View," where she will be talking about some new culinary dishes.

Come through the doors at B. Smith's and you will find a gallery of photographs of B. Smith standing alongside virtually every celebrity and A-lister in Hollywood. The decor is elegant but relaxed and has the feel of a summer by the sea. The restaurant is essentially one enormous open and airy room. The dark oak floors are present throughout and contrast well with the soft yellow of the walls and the wonderful thick white crown and base moldings. The particular yellow on the walls is B. Smith's formula, offered for sale as B. Smith's Yellow, exclusively at the Emporium Hardware Store.

Through the north doors is the giant deck right on the water. This is a great place to dine and watch the boats while the sun sets and the day wanes. But if you're out on the deck, don't forget to look to the left for the five-foot juniper tree that has been sculpted in part by clipping shears and partly by the salty breezes. It looks a bit like an oversized bonsai tree.

B. Smith's is a seafood restaurant at its heart and features a raw bar and perhaps one of the East End's most unparalleled views of Sag Harbor.

Robin Piro is B. Smith's general manager and, along with Cornelius Freeman, Rich Moran and Chef John Poon, forms the core unit that has been together since the opening of this restaurant ten years ago. They are all quite pleasant and infinitely accommodating. Their teamwork is immediately apparent.

The wine list includes a few nice, local selections. It might catch your eye that the Chilean selections included a syrah named "Screaming Jack" and a syrah-cabernet called "Two Brothers Big Tatoo." However, for those in the mood for a local wine, the Woelffer Estate 2003 merlot is medium-bodied and velvety smooth with hints of berries and spice and a very nice finish.

The starters include a variety of salads, lobster chowder, shrimp dumplings and a Southern black-eyed pea soup with smoked pork tips. This soup is a long way from the usual pea soups that have been pureed into submission and transformed into something that appears to be gritty green baby food that Shrek might have been raised on. Chef Poon's black-eyed pea soup is a spectacular mix of the peas, diced veggies and greens in an herby and tasty broth.

The entrees consist of very nice varieties of seafood choices including the Hawaiian jumbo prawns, which are so large that Peter Benchley might have written about them. The prawns are quite fresh and aromatic and are served with an outstanding buckwheat pilaf with pineapples. The prawns and pilaf sit in a small pool of sunny, yellow mango-based cream and butter sauce that accents the meal and, yes, also complements the wall color.

B. Smith's also serves steaks, chicken and lamb. The Black Angus steak is cooked with a sweet glaze and is thick and tasty and could stand shoulder to shoulder with those at the finest steak houses. It is served with delicious butter and herb mashed potatoes and snap peas.

Desserts include a key lime pie that is unparalleled - not even Key West can do it any better. The chocolate souffle is delicate and tasty and, upon breaking its outer mantle, oozes warm, thick chocolate sauce flowing from its center. This year, B. Smith's has also added a bread pudding that is moist and delicious and served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

After dinner you can wander over to the spacious bar, where you can join the cheery people, quaffing neon-bright martinis and multi-colored cosmos. Following such great dining, the harbor and the sunset are there to be toasted.

B. Smith's will be open seven days for lunch and dinner starting Memorial Day weekend. Dress is casual and the prices are typical of better East End restaurants. For more information, visit www.bsmith.com or call (631) 725-5858.