Dans Papers - May 25, 2007 -Letter From Dan's Wine Guide Editor

At the risk of showing my age, I can remember when Greenport was, to be honest, a culinary wasteland. To experience anything close to fine food you had to leave town and head west to Ross' North Fork, opened in 1973 by pioneer chef John Ross. Pioneers are brave by nature, and John was no exception. He had the nerve to put fine French Burgundies on a wine list back when most people thought Burgundy came in a jug with "Gallo" on the label.

That was then. Today, there's Rosa Ross' Scrimshaw, Deborah Rivera's The Greenporter La Cuvee, and Dennis McDermott's Frisky Oyster. Head to any of these destinations with confidence. You will eat and drink well. But a personal favorite of mine is outside the village down a side street on the way to Orient. This little out of the way place, Antares Cafee, has been open since 2000. Though chef/owner Matt Murphy, who came to the East End after stints at top Manhattan spots, took a break last year to travel, he is back and the menu is better than ever. It is an eclectic mix, but that assures there is something for everyone (see review above).

In this first issue of Dan's "Through the Grapevine" Wine Guide of the year, we focus on local restaurants with emphasis on their wine lists. A new column, "The List," by senior wine writer Christopher Miller (former sommelier at Manhattan's '21' Club) will review wine lists from top East End restaurants (East Hampton's 1770 House's wine program is featured in this issue on page 127). The goal, in addition to reporting on the success of the wine programs, is to help demystify the sometimes daunting tome handed to one along with the menu. A few things consciously learned here will eliminate that often awkward moment many diners dread, especially if they are hoping to impress their guests with their wine knowledge.

We also bring to this first issue a new, broader approach that will focus on French, Italian and New World wines in addition to local ones. Look for more articles on wine shops and restaurants, both here and in Manhattan, as well interviews with notables in the industry. I am delighted to have someone as knowledgeable as Chris writing for this section, and his wisdom will surely help our readers become more familiar with fine wine as well as learn where to look for the best buys.

Speaking of fine wine, David and I had the opportunity to savor some very special bottles over the long winter. It is impossible for wine lovers who live in Manhattan not to be tempted by every hot new restaurant with a fancy list, but we narrowed it down to two new steakhouses: Laurent Tourondel's BLT Steak and Tribeca's Dylan Prime.

The whimsically named BLT Steak - as in B for Bistro followed by the owner's initials - is a Frenchman's interpretation of a New York steakhouse. Sleek and sophisticated as opposed to dark and clubby, this Midtowner is a destination for stylish carnivores and is noted by the Michelin Guide for its wine list. So how could you possibly improve a slab of meltingly tender, Certified Angus BLT beef? Perhaps only by opening a bottle 1982 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion (99 pts. R.Parker). Here was a perfect pair. The still youthful wine, with its smoky, truffle nose, dense purple color and well-integrated tannins was very well priced for a First Growth on a Manhattan list. It still stands as David's all time favorite to date. But even if you don't plan to splurge on a big vintage, come here for the unbelievably tasty Gruyere-infused popovers. They alone are worth the trip, though I must say sharing glasses of the legendary Chartreuse V.E.P. with the sommelier into the night made the evening truly memorable.

Dylan Prime in Tribeca is another altar dedicated to the worship of the corn-fed steer. Here, tucked into a cozy banquette on a blustery night, we shared a porterhouse for two along with a lovely bottle of 1995 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases (95 pts. R. Parker), a good buy compared to the 98-point rated 1996. The wine, nearly opaque purple with minerals and black fruit on the nose, is a bit more tannic than the 1996, but this suited the porterhouse just fine.

If you are a believer in destiny, than being born in 1961 - a year some call the vintage of the last century - should guarantee a life-long passion for wine. David, lucky guy, was so born, and as he recently celebrated a birthday, I decided to track down some bottles from his birth year as a surprise. A 1961 Cos d'Estournel (92 pts.) came from the West Coast, but a 1961 Chateau Lynch-Bages (95 pts.) and an antique-looking (I guess we really are getting older!) 1961 Chateau Gruaud-Larose (96 pts.) were got right here in Bridgehampton at D. Sokolin & Company. This shop, a tiny retail space in front of a climate-controlled warehouse, is a great source for vintage and collectable wine. And if they don't have it, they can probably find it. (Visit for inspiration. Also check out Cellarbrokers.com on Hampton Road in Southampton. We picked up a quite rare 1995 Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache (95 pts.) there on a recent visit.)

The next issue of Dan's Wine Guide (June 29 issue) will be dedicated to sparklers, in honor of our national holiday, but also because you can't drink Champagne and not be happy. Look for ideas for cooking with bubbles from Chris Miller, another peek inside a top East End wine list, and a Shelter Island love story that began in Tuscany. And speaking of Tuscany, August 3's Wine Guide will be devoted to all things Italian, including a review of Robert's of Water Mill. Cheers.