Dans Papers - May 25, 2007 - Michaels' at the Boardwalk

I have to admit that from the moment that I heard that Michael Meehan was the Executive Chef of this new restaurant in the middle of Riverhead, I looked forward to eating there. From the time that he graced the kitchen of the SeaFood Barge, I have always enjoyed his culinary skills. His dishes are always a perfect blend of ingredients, with nothing over the top.

Owner Rich Gheradi's new addition to the Riverhead dining scene (which, by the way, now seems on pace to match Greenport) is very attractive, whether you approach from Main Street directly into the warmly decorated bistro style dining room with its large bar and tables pristinely set in chocolate and beige, or if you enter from the rear, where the enormous copper clad bar and outside dining and drinking area overlook the Peconic River. This outdoor area will soon offer a sushi and raw bar.

Michaels' describes itself as an American Bistro. The menu certainly confirms this because there really is something for everyone's tastes and appetite, whether you fancy a simple one-dish meal or want to indulge in a full three course gourmet dinner. "Customer friendly," was how Nick Myers, the very enthusiastic manager, described the restaurant, as we discussed the menu with him. We decided to go along with his recommendation of one of the evening's special appetizers, hearth baked Catapano Farm goat cheese with roasted peppers, toasted almonds and fig balsamic dressing that came with a selection of excellent salad greens. The dish looked attractive and tasted even better and immediately we recognized again, Michaels' ability to blend such varied ingredients into an amalgam of soft deep tastes that lingered on the palate. After this, we we indulged in the Prince Edward Island mussels steamed with shallots, lemon, fresh thyme and chardonnay. These were very plump P.E.I. mussels and again the broth was aromatic and worthy of drinking to the last subtle drop.

When it came to main courses, the choice was extremely difficult. Rare seared Montauk tuna? The roast Crescent farm duck? Cicken pot pie, and cedar planked organic salmon? They all sounded wonderful and that's only a few of the possible choices. In the end, we chose soft shell crabs, served with North Fork asparagus, micro red mustard and orange sherry butter, which were delectable, and the porterhouse Colorado spring lamb chops were large, cooked as ordered and the corn spoon bread with corn relish and red wine thyme jus were perfect accompaniments.

Desserts are all prepared in-house by pastry chef Sylvia Luna, and based on the selection we tasted, dessert lovers are in for a great treat here! The highlight was a perfect creme brulee that really couldn't be beaten, and the chocolate cake with caramelized bananas and banana ice cream also was outstanding. So when you eat here make sure you leave room for sweet indulgences.

During our meal we drank a glass of the Martha Clara Viognier, the Macari Reserve Chardonnay and the Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel, from their very well designed wine list, which offers a wide variety of choice at extremely reasonable prices. Wines by the glass start at $6 and bottles from $20. They also make a wine pairing suggestion with the daily special dishes. Martinis and cocktails are house specialties and there is a very wide range of tap and bottled beers.

Michaels' is open for lunch and dinner each day (no lunch on Saturday) and shortly plans to offer a prix fixe and early bird menus. Music will be featured in the evenings as well. Starters range from $6 to $12, Michaels' burger and fries is $10. Pastas are priced from $16 to $18 and can also be ordered in half portions. Main courses are from $14 to $32 for bone in rib eye steak. Desserts are $6 to 8.

Based on the fullness of the restaurant early on a Thursday evening, the message has already started to get out, even though the restaurant has only been open a few weeks. With its comfortable atmosphere, inside and outside dining, great, well cooked and presented food at sensible prices, and friendly attentive service, Michaels' should be on your list of places to go.