Dans Papers - May 25, 2007 -

It's Memorial Day weekend -- the scales have tilted in favor of summer, and that means these sleepy fishing towns are awakened. Towels are spread out on beaches that were recently desolate. Parking spaces that were once a dime a dozen are now precious commodities. And restaurants have thrown open their doors to welcome the ravenous hoards. So, what's in store for the restaurant scene on the East End this summer? As always, we have the regular standbys. A Rowdy burger after a movie in East Hampton or a Scotch on the rocks at the American Hotel are things you can count on. But there is also a crop of newcomers, joining the elite group of Hamptons dining establishments. From Westhampton Beach to Montauk, there are enough rookie restaurants to satisfy any craving and whet any appetite.

Starting from the west and working our way eastbound like the train on a Friday afternoon, The Patio at 54 Main is due to open in mid-June. Bring a crew and enjoy the ten-seat chef's table in the wine room. Chef Katherine E. Kane, formerly a cook at Nick and Toni's, serves her New American cuisine, with such choices as pan-seared sea scallops with local roasted corn, cilantro, red pepper coulis and porterouse lamb chops with a mojito reduction. As the name implies, this newly renovated spot is located at 54 Main Street in Westhampton Beach. The phone number is (631) 288-4878.

Chugging eastbound to Hampton Bays, Tony's Fusion Express is a second restaurant from the owners of Tony's Asian Fusion, also in Hampton Bays. This dressed-down version of its sister restaurant has such staples as pad thai, spicy tuna rolls and chicken with broccoli, all available to go. For those who choose to eat in, there are also ten tables. Tony's Fusion Express is located at 1 W. Main Street in Hampton Bays and the number is (631) 728.1799.

Truly a family restaurant, Before the Bridge is a fine seafood restaurant open year-round, whose fish comes from CorJ's. The owners, Marty and Patti, are both very involved in all the workings of the restaurant, with Marty running the front and Patty running the back. Before The Bridge is great for those that appreciate fresh local food and good people. In keeping with their local flavor, their menu features local wines from the Channing Daughters Winery.

As far as the menu is concerned, Before The Bridge features a delightful shellfish platter that comes with three sauces - cocktail sauce, remoulade and a mignonette. "The mignonette is made with an aged sherry vinegar base and is traditionally served with oysters," Patti said. Their other seafood is similarly dazzling and always fresh. For dessert, be sure to check out the brownie sundae, which is served warm and drizzled with chocolate sauce. To contact Before the Bridge please call (631) 728-9111.

Further east still, Southampton welcomes the cozy Tugboat's North Sea House, which the owner, Chris Mackin, likens to a night over "at a friend's house." There's a library, living room, lounge, kitchen, bar and dining room. The good news, though, is you won't have to do any dishes after you feast on classics like burgers, chicken sandwiches and skewered meats. The casual atmosphere encourages you to linger over books and games after dinner. This restaurant is at 1271 North Sea Road in Southampton and the phone number is 631-283-9347.

Muse Restaurant and Aquatic Lounge in Water Mill has opened where Paloma's used to be and the creative dishes like the clam chowder cake and the curried honey and soy seared lollipops have caused a stir. Chef owner Matthew Giuffrida also whips up a horseradish and Gorgonzola-crusted New York strip that gets the taste buds watering. Adding ambience to flavor, the top of the bar is a saltwater aquarium. Find Muse in the Water Mill shopping center at 760 Montauk Hwy. The number is (631) 726-2606.

Sag Harbor, as always, has a few new restaurant venues this summer. Tutto Il Giorno, which means "All Day" in Italian, is a hot new spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Scott Conant, a Manhattan chef, is consulting chef at this summery space across the street from the cinema. Chef Benito Trombetta and sous chef Matthew Purcell cook up a contemporary Italian menu. The slow poaches orata rossa with lobster and the grilled bistecca alla Fiorentina are just a couple of the menu items that jump off the page. Tutto Il Giorno is located at 6 Bay Street in Sag Harbor. The number is (631) 725-7009.

An exciting addition to the lovely Sagaponack landscape is the opening of Townline BBQ. In a small building overlooking great expanses of sunflower and corn fields, the location is spectacular. The restaurateurs who brought us some of our tried and true favorites, like Nick and Toni's, Rowdy Hall and La Fondita, bring us a barbecue spot with smoking ribs, chicken and brisket. This mostly Texan menu features meats smoked with dry rub. Because barbecue is best served messily, the owners have decided to encourage the use of hands by installing a washing station in the middle of the room. Townline BBQ is opening in mid-June and it's located at 3593 Townline Rd. For more information, contact Nick and Toni's at (631) 324-3550.

Of course, East Hampton also has plenty of new spots that will lure you even further out. Matto, which moved in where Pomodoro used to be, is the new project of chef Franco Russo, who used to cook at Saracen in Wainscott. He serves up thin-crust pizzas, tuna carpaccio with fried artichokes and lemon and bistecca al pepe verde. And on a warm summer night, you can take this fresh Italian fare outside to the outdoor dining patio! Matto is at 104 N Main St in East Hampton and the number is (631) 329-0200.

If you're cruising all the way to the dunes of Amagansett, you might want to check out 27 Authentic Mexican Kitchen. Executive Chef Mario Morales, who used to cook at Dos Caminos in Manhattan, has concocted an enticing menu featuring tequila-battered mahi mahi tacos and beef brisket enchiladas. This spot is located at 2095 Montauk Hwy in Amagansett and the number is (631) 267-6980.

A great man once said, "Even if I went to a new restaurant in Manhattan every night, I would never eat in them all because new ones open so fast." The same is ringing true for the East End. But I think if I get a head start, I might have a fighting chance of sampling them all. If only my wallet agreed with me...