Simple Art of Cooking

Heavenly Salmon Filets

Silvia Lehrer

The month of May welcomes fresh, not frozen, Pacific wild salmon. At the moment, Alaskan wild salmon can be found at your local fish store. For those who refrain from eating farm-raised salmon due to the potentially harmful feed they're given for color enhancement, this is your chance to benefit from the fine nutritious qualities of the fish, which is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids. I recently grilled salmon fillets to serve with a compound butter. This classic butter preparation is infused with a bit of lemon juice and fresh herbs for a quick and simple way to season food. The butter can be prepared ahead, formed into a log, wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated or frozen.

For the grilled salmon, bring the butter to room temperature then place slices over the still hot from the grill fillets to melt over the fish into a savory herbal sauce. My mom whipped up lentils in a variety of ways and I especially liked her lentil stew to serve with salmon. I took some liberties with her recipe and added a bit of fresh ginger - I don't think Mom ever used ginger, but she did surprise me more than once with her innovative cooking - and substituted fennel for the celery, which has the same crunch with more depth of flavor.

Rhubarb stalks are once again gracing our farm stands and a beautiful bunch stewed with strawberries makes a delicious accompaniment to the salmon or as a piquant dessert over ice cream any time.

GRILLED SALMON FILETS WITH HERB BUTTER

The herb flecked seasoned compound butter melts into a delectable sauce when topped over the grilled filets.

Serves 4

1. Cream the butter in a bowl, slowly adding the lemon juice and herbs until thoroughly combined. Form into a log on a large square of plastic wrap, if not using right away, shape the butter with the help of the wrap and refrigerate or freeze. Bring to room temperature when ready to use.

2. Place salmon filets on a platter and season both sides with salt, pepper and oil. Arrange salmon skin-side up and leave at room temperature for 25-30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare clean grill to medium-high heat. Brush grill with oil and place salmon filets skin-side down to crisp about 5 minutes. Turn salmon over and cook for another 3 minutes or so for medium rare or another minute or two for medium (best not to cook beyond this stage). Transfer to dinner plates, top with slices of compound butter and serve.

LENTIL AND FENNEL STEW

Prepare with green or red lentils, if possible, for a colorful and very tasty stew or a side dish to serve with grilled fish or meat.

Serves 4-6

1. Place rinsed lentils in a large 4-quart saucepan. Add water and bring to a boil. Add salt to taste and cook lentils at a brisk simmer with cover ajar for about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile heat two tablespoons oil in a clean saucepan, put in the shallots and ginger and sauté for a minute or so. Add the carrots and fennel and cover with a square of wax paper to sweat the vegetables, covered for 5-6 minutes longer. Add the lentils, the liquid and tomato sauce or tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper and simmer over low heat for 10-15 minutes until lentils and vegetables are tender and flavors incorporate. If liquid is absorbed before lentils are tender, add 2-3 tablespoons boiling water. To serve, drizzle over remaining oil and parsley and serve warm.

RHUBARB COMPOTE

Versatile and refreshing, this light compote can be prepared ahead and refrigerated.

1. Rinse rhubarb stalks and cut into 1-inch pieces. Put into a heavy saucepan with sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, orange zest and juice. Simmer over low heat until the rhubarb has broken down, about 8-10 minutes. Add strawberries and stir to mix. Taste to adjust sweetness as necessary. Serve warm or chilled.

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