Dan's Papers - May 16, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Executive chef Michael Rozzi of Della Femina Restaurant in East Hampton, and Sag Harbor resident Michael Carr-Smith, importer/distributor of New Zealand's South Pacific Wines, put their resourceful heads together to create a delectable wine pairing dinner inspired by seasonal and local ingredients.

Wine pairing dinners are popular here on the East End, for connoisseurs and novices. When it comes to wine I am without a doubt the novice - I just know what I like, especially when the wines are in the $10 to $20 dollar category. I have pretty sensitive taste buds for food and wine, however, and was delighted to experience the nuances of both at the Della Femina dinner.

The impressive meal in the restaurant's well-designed, warmly lit dining room began with Great Peconic Bay Meeting House oysters on the half shell topped with a colorful mango and cilantro salsa dressed with piquant lemon/rice wine vinaigrette. Deliciously briny slurps were compatible with sips of the crisp Crossroads Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Marlborough NZ - a great shellfish wine. Rozzi's warm duck salad with baby fennel hash and pureed beet vinaigrette was food for the gods. Shreds of duck confit and the many flavor layers of the salads forward style balanced well with the fruity flavors of Crossroads Pinot Noir 2005, Hawkes Bay NZ. Moving on to our main course, rosy slices of juniper and paprika rubbed leg of venison with a luscious celery root puree and seasonal wild mountain ramps was well paired with Crossroads "RGF" 2002, a terrific red wine. The venison's lean, high iron style was beautifully balanced with the hand harvested Bordeaux blend premium wines bright fruit and long finish.

With its nutty, sweet, salty and piquant flavors, cucumber and shiso sorbet with toasted sesame seeds and red sea salt, was a sweet and savory palate cleanser. We refreshed our palates with this frosty dessert as we raised our glasses of Crossroads 2005 Chardonnay to an inspired dinner. Michael Rozzi's references to the first two courses assisted me in adapting the following recipes.

20 shucked oysters on the half shell
1 slightly ripened mango
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon finely diced red onion or scallion
1 1/4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch kosher salt

1. Place the oysters on the half shell on a bed of crushed ice and refrigerate, tented with plastic wrap until ready to serve.

2. With a sharp knife, slice along both sides of the mango pit to release the two halves. Slice into the flesh in each half in a criss-cross pattern and scrape the small dice into a bowl. Add remaining ingredients and toss to mix. Taste to adjust seasoning as necessary. When ready to serve spoon a little dressing over each oyster. Serve oysters over a bed of crushed ice with cilantro sprig garnish.

WARM DUCK CONFIT SALAD WITH
FENNEL HASH AND BEET VINAIGRETTE
Confit (pronounced con-fee) is a method of preserving with salt to last for months without refrigeration.
Serves 4

For the beet vinaigrette
1 shallot
1 roasted or boiled and peeled beet
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon sherry wine vinegar
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

For the vegetable hash
1 firm bulb fennel, trimmed
1 leek, white and light green parts only
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

To finish
1 duck leg confit, skin removed for cracklings, optional*
1 bunch arugula, washed and spin-dried

1. Finely mince shallot in a food processor fitted with knife blade. Cut beet into chunks, add to the minced shallot and process to puree, pushing down sides with a rubber spatula as necessary. Add salt, pepper and vinegar and process to mix. Add oil slowly through feed tube and process into the pureed mixture. Taste to adjust seasoning. Scrape into a small bowl and reserve.

2. Remove fennel branches and chop some of the fronds for garnish. Rinse and dry fennel, then shave with a mandolin or slice very thinly discarding the heavy core. Trim and wash leek very well, then cut into thin slices. Heat oil in a skillet, put in the fennel and leek and saute for 5-6 minutes, turning occasionally until lightly caramelized. Season with salt, pepper and thyme.

3. When ready to serve shred duck meat and toss through the fennel hash to distribute evenly. Divide the arugula on 4 salad plates and spoon over the vegetables and duck meat. Sprinkle with chopped fennel fronds and circle the plate with beet vinaigrette.

*For cracklings, cut the skin into 1/2-inch pieces and place on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Bake in a 350 degree oven until brown and crisp, about 12-15 minutes. Drain on paper towels then toss over the salad like bacon bits.