Dan's Papers - May 16, 2008 - The New Paradise

Preservation is a serious topic on the East End. But while it conjures up images of historic buildings and farm fields for some people, it has a different connotation for foodies.

How many times have you reminisced about an amazing dish offered at a restaurant that has closed - its mythic flavors only mouthwatering memories. Thankfully, just as there are land preservationists on the East End, so are there stewards of entrees that deserve their place in dining history.

The New Paradise in Sag Harbor comes from a respected culinary lineage - Robert Durkin was the owner and chef at Karen Lee, well-respected restaurant in Bridgehampton during the '80s. He acquired Robert's in Water Mill eight years ago, developing a new menu for that space. But for Karen Lee fans distraught at the thought of never again being able to enjoy some of the dishes served there, there's The New Paradise in Sag Harbor. When the restaurant became available five years ago, Durkin jumped in and, among other things, reintroduced some Karen Lee specials - including the Herb Crusted Free-Range Chicken with Shoestring Fries and Mustard Butter. But this is only one of the many offerings at this casually elegant restaurant on Main Street that are the stuff of memories. On a recent visit, we tried almost a dozen dishes, from soup to dessert.

At some restaurants, the food wows you at the first bite with a blast of flavors. But after another forkful, you've had it with seasoning and sauces that are too heavy handed, too on the nose. The great dishes are those that coax, tease, and tempt. You may have a little more than you "should" because you need just another bite to really figure out what's going on. Or you've decided to simply give in to the experience and want to enjoy every morsel. This is the type of food served at The New Paradise. It's intriguing and engaging. The first bite welcomes you. The second makes you want to stay all night.

The Manhattan-style clam chowder was hearty yet fresh at the same time, with the perfect zing of cayenne. My favorite thing about the black bean soup was size of the beans - tiny - lending elegance to this rich staple, pointed with cumin overtones. For appetizers, we had the Caramelized Onion-Goat Cheese Tart. "Micro Greens" top a soufflé of goat cheese flecked with scallions that rests on a bed of the sweet onions - all supported by a crunchy, buttery pastry. Think John Denver: It fills up your senses. The Asian Crab Cakes were another winner. The crab mixture was covered with a crust of light, greaseless panko, over carrot and mango julienne and surrounded with a chili mayonnaise. The crab cake was "loose" as my dining companion called it - in other words, moist and free of starchy binders.

Of the entrees, there was the mythical chicken - drenched in herbs, grilled, then roasted - a process that yields an incredible depth of flavor. The chicken was moist and infused through with the heady herbs. It comes with the skinniest shoestring fries - if you liked those potato sticks in a round box as a kid, you will have a Ratatouille moment.

But meaning no disrespect to a legend, my partner and I went ga-ga over the other two entrees: top quality Grilled Ahi Tuna with a sundried tomato/black olive tapenade, served over chewy, spicy broccoli rabe. A perfect balance of flavors and textures. A special that night was grilled scallops, served with orzo. I usually shy from grilled scallops - the smoke and char overpower the delicacy of the meat. But in this case, there was nothing harsh, the grilling added a layer that complemented the flavor of the scallops. Hopefully the dish will become a menu staple.

The desserts we tried included a creamy, vanilla bread pudding with whole cherries and pistachio pieces in creme Anglaise. Pistachios and cherries. Thank you. The Chocolate Pot de Creme was dense and intense with rich, bitter chocolate. Now chocolate is an ingredient you want to devastate you from start to finish, and this dessert does just that. The Cinnamon Apple Tart was lovely - not the usual sliced, caramelized apples, but small cubes of firm, fresh apples with some tooth, with the caramel provided by a rich sauce.

The New Paradise prices are in keeping with most Hamptons restaurants. But here, the order of business is to use the highest quality, freshest ingredients, well prepared. They go the extra mile, and it's worth it. While continuing a great restaurant tradition, New Paradise also creates its own history every day with original, thoughtful dishes - the stuff of which legends are made.