Dans Papers - May 18, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Mango madness is what happened when my local supermarket offered the fruit at 2 for $1. Who can resist a bargain?

Mangoes have been referred to as the "Apple of the tropics." The fruit, native to India, Southeast Asia and the tropics, are eaten out of hand in those locales as commonly as we eat apples. Out of hundreds of varieties of mangoes the most common in our local markets is the Tommy Atkins. This oval shaped fruit with inedible skin can range in color from green to yellow and red - color doesn't indicate ripeness. Your nose and a slight yielding from a gentle press of a finger are the best indication of ripeness. If you choose under ripe mangoes store them at room temperature for a couple of days to ripen. The deep yellow color of the flesh indicates a fruit that is rich in beta carotene, a natural disease fighter - and rich as well in Vitamin C with a good amount of potassium and B vitamins. One-half a mango is only 67 calories and zero fat. The 2-for-1 sale may be over by the time this hits the presses but the qualities of this delectable fruit is enough good reason to have your own mango madness.

Cubes of mango with sweet red onion, pungent ginger root, citrus and honey make a piquant salsa. A creamy mixture of mango, creme fraiche and condensed milk becomes a Mexican inspired mango de leche, and mango crisp served at a participating barbecue some years ago will make a sweet ending to many summer parties to come.

Salsa, a Latin concoction, combines the sweetness of fruit, the acidity of citrus juices and a bit of spice. It is the perfect accompaniment for grilled foods.
Yield: 2 cups

2 large ripe mangoes
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 small red onion cut into small dice
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger root
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 cup orange juice, preferably fresh
2 teaspoons honey
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped coriander leaves

1. Mangoes can be frustrating to cut. Insert your knife into the fruit and cut lengthwise along the seed on both sides. Score the fruit lengthwise then widthwise creating a criss-cross pattern and with your hand, flip the fruit inside out and slice off the cubes into a mixing bowl.

2. Add remaining ingredients to the cubed mango and stir to mix. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary.

3. Refrigerate the mixture in a suitable container up to a day ahead until ready to serve.

This Mexican inspired sweet is a kind of mango de leche.
Serves 6

3 large ripe mangoes
3 tablespoons creme fraiche
1 - 1 1/2 tablespoons orange liqueur
1/2 cup condensed milk

1. Cut the mango into cubes as in the above recipe and put into a blender or work bowl of a food processor. Puree the fruit very well, pushing down sides with a rubber spatula as necessary. Add remaining ingredients and puree again.

2. Transfer mixture into a dessert bowl or individual custard cups. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Serve with a dry cookie such as biscotti.

Recipe is compliment of Sydney Binsotck, formerly of Restaurant Associates.
Serves 10-12

7-8 large ripe mangoes
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons minced candied ginger

For the topping
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup granola mix
1/2 cup light brown sugar
3/4 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1/2 cup slivered almonds
Chilled whipped cream (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 13 x 9 Pyrex baking dish.

1. Cut mangoes into cubes as in mango salsa recipe above. Place the cubed fruit in a large mixing bowl and fold in the lime juice, sugar, cornstarch and candied ginger with a large rubber spatula. Transfer to prepared baking dish.

2. Combine all the topping ingredients except the nuts in a food processor fitted with metal blade. Pulse the machine with quick on/off pulses until butter is the size of large peas. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the mango mixture and top with the nuts. Bake until topping is golden brown, about 45-50 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with a dollop of whipped cream if desired.