Dan's Papers - May 9, 2008 - Over the Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

Over the years Paumanok Vineyards, one of Long Island's oldest - and best - family-run wineries, has been the darling of consumers and critics alike, and with good reason. Co-owner Charles Massoud and his Kareem, are making some of the North Forks best wines. And they are doing it their way.

In a wine industry where some remain convinced that merlot is the grape - and wine - that will ultimately lead Long Island wine to worldwide prominence, the Massouds remain dedicated to diversity instead of one grape.

With the release of their 2007 white wines, they're cutting against the grain again, becoming the first and only winery to bottle wines under Stelvin closures, commonly known as screwcaps.

In an email, the elder Massoud told me that it's too early to draw any final conclusions about the new closures, but "We firmly believe that we will not get any 'corked wines' in this group." Avoiding corked wines, of course, is the primary benefit of not using natural cork to seal one's wines. Corked wines, of course are those infected with 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) and have aromas and flavors reminiscent of moldy cardboard, wet dog, or dingy basement. Depending on whose information you believe, TCA affects 3% to 15% of the bottles we purchase.

But with five new wines untouched by potentially tainted cork, Paumanok has ushered in a new era for wineries wanting to side-step the financial and reputational repercussions of corked wines.

But how do they taste? That's what really matters.

The Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Festival Chardonnay ($12), made completely in stainless steel tanks rather than oak barrels, is a wine I've enjoyed in previous vintages. This time 'round, the typical citrus and apple flavors are still here, but the acidity is a little overwhelming at this point in the wine's life. Instead of crisp and refreshing, it's a little harsh right now. I'll wait a few months and try it again.

The classy, refined 2007 Dry Riesling ($22) is floral on the nose with hints of lime zest and minerals. Medium-light in body, it's a delicate, classic wine with more citrus zest and blossom flavors joined by just a little lychee nut. The lengthy finish is clean and refreshing because of terrific acidity and a minerally note. If you like dry German Rieslings, this is the one for you.

Riper and fruitier, Paumanok's 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling ($22) is noticeably sweet (with 3.2% residual sugar), but not at all sugary. We have well-balanced acidity to thank for that. The aromas and flavors include bright citrus, juicy peach, crisp pear and honeyed apples. I don't like this one quite as well as the dry riesling, but the finish still lingers, highlighted by limes and pears.

Sauvignon blanc is among the region's most exciting grapes these days, and the Massouds' 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($28) is a fine, varietally correct example. It has all of the aromas and flavors you'd expect-grape fruit, kiwi, gooseberry and tropical fruit-along with outstanding acid structure and a minerally finish. Weighing in at 13.9%, the highest alcohol ever for a Paumanok white, one might expect a little tingle of alcohol heat at the end, but it never comes.

And now for the best of the mostly impressive bunch - Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Chenin Blanc ($28). Chenin blanc is rare on the North Fork-no one else grows it-and this is a much sought after wine upon its release each year. After tasting this year's release, I'm confident it will be again.

The nose is a mélange of grapefruit, mango, pear, melon and orange blossom. A medium-bodied palate starts off fresh and clean with melon, grapefruit and mineral flavors, but as the wine crosses over into the mid-palate, the flavors change a bit, becoming richer with pineapple and honey. That honeyed fruit character carries through to the finish, which is long and delicious. The texture of this wine is faintly oily but it remains lively and clean because-again-there's plenty of balancing acidity.

If you want to get your hands on these wines, get to the tasting room soon or visit www.paumanok.com. Particularly with the chenin blanc. It always sells out very quickly. Luckily, the Massouds have planted several more acres of the grape and will be able to increase production in coming years.