Dan's Papers - May 9, 2008 - Raving Beauty by Janet Flora

Even makeup minimalists may have some flaw they'd like to hide. Whether it's under-eye circles, a broken capillary, or something more temporary like a blemish or bruise, any flaw can disappear with the proper concealer and careful application. First you need to understand some basics about the concealers available. There are those that come in wands that resemble a lip-gloss, and like a lip-gloss, they have their own little felt tip applicators or brushes attached. These products usually have a liquid consistency and the coverage tends to be sheer.

Some concealers come in tubes that resemble a traditional lipstick. The consistency of these products is drier and coverage more opaque. Some come in a squeeze tube, or are packaged in a pot or pan, a bit like lip salve. The consistency and coverage of these products is usually something in between the lipstick tube and wand type. And there are still others that look like pencils or pens, or something more exotic. But for our purposes we'll concentrate on the first three.

For under-eye discoloration, which tends to appear bluish-grey on most people, it's best to use a wand type concealer because of the sheerer texture. (Sometimes there is discoloration that still shows through, which might be eliminated with a thicker product. But thicker products can cause the thin skin under and around the eyes to look wrinkled.)

Use the wand or the brush of the concealer and place a few dots of the product only where the skin is discolored, then with the edge of a makeup sponge or your finger dab the product into your skin. Be sure you're not spreading the product where it's not needed.

Just as important as where you put the concealer is the shade you choose. The most common mistake is choosing a shade that is too light. By doing this you'll have a paler shade of bluish-gray discoloration. There must be enough colored pigment in the product to hide the circles. The bluer the discoloration the deeper the shade of concealer you'll need. If the concealer then seems too dark for your skin tone, just dot a bit of foundation that matches your skin over the concealer.

For blemishes, broken capillaries or anywhere other than under the eye, use a lipstick tube type concealer that matches your skin. Apply a small amount directly from the tube to the spot you are trying to hide. Then with your finger, tap on the product until it's absorbed into the skin. If there is any line of demarcation, blend the edges into the surrounding skin with your finger by stroking rather than tapping.

If you have a larger area of discoloration like bruising, you can use either the lipstick tube type concealer, or the kind in a pot or a squeeze tube. It's best to use these products with a concealer brush that can be bought in a specialty makeup store, or from makeup lines like MAC or Bobbie Brown. The secret to hiding a bruise is using several different shades of concealer, since most bruises are comprised of several different tones. Ricky's, in East Hampton, sells products in palettes in multiple colors. Alcone is a professional makeup distributor with a store on West 49th Street in NYC and a warehouse in Long Island City, which sells many brands of concealer palettes.

With these products and a little know-how you're sure to fix whatever you're trying to hide.

Janet Flora writes lifestyle and beauty features, and is a former contributor to Make-up Artist and Health magazines. A creative writing teacher and fiction writer, she spends her time in New York and Sag Harbor.