Dan's Papers - April 25, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

With the change of weather and warmer temperatures heading our way, small fishing boats are moving out to sea within a few miles of shore. Gill-netting, a method of catching fish is employed by fishermen using large nets and setting them in the water. They're normally left overnight, weighted down with buoys and weights to retrieve the fish in local waters. According to Greg at Cor-J seafood in Hampton Bays we should expect skate and sea bass at East End seafood shops now. Weakfish, I am told, may also find their way into the nets. How fortunate we are to be so close to the source.

I love all manner of fish and shellfish. We've been eating lots of flounder, fluke and cod. We eat lots of salmon through the year too but in another month or so we will have wild salmon from the Pacific Coast, and that is a whole other story. I'm excited about cooking sea bass, a personal favorite that I look forward to preparing Asian style. Skate is an underappreciated fish, but its delicate white flesh makes a delicious saute in brown butter. It's only the meaty wings of skate that are marketed.

The most important thing with fish is to choose whatever is seasonal and freshest in the market. In this way fish could also prove to be economical, a major concern with fish today.

SEA BASS CHINESE STYLE
This is a traditional fish preparation in many Chinese home kitchens.
Serves 2-3

1 1/2 -2 pound sea bass, gutted and cleaned with head and tail left on
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
6 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
One-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced into matchsticks
1-2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 scallions, trimmed, rinsed and sliced on the diagonal

1. Have fishmonger clean fish as above. Rinse fish and dry well with paper towels.

2. Pour enough water in a wok or deep skillet with cover to poach the fish. Bring to a boil, put in the fish and reduce heat to a brisk simmer. Cover the wok or skillet with a tight fitting lid. Poach fish for 8-10 minutes. Test with chopstick for doneness.

3. While the fish is poaching, heat oil and ginger to crisp the ginger. Keep warm.

4. When fish is done, carefully remove from wok with a large flat spatula and transfer to a platter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and lace with soy sauce. Pour the sizzling ginger/oil over the fish. Garnish with scallions and serve.

BRAISED SKATE WITH MUSHROOMS
Have your fishmonger prepare the skate into two filets by removing the blade sandwiched in the wing. The wing is the only edible part of the fish.
Serves 2

2 boneless, skinless skate wings, about 1 pound
Flour
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2-3 shallots, finely chopped
1/3 pound shitake mushrooms, rinsed, dried and sliced thin
2-3 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2/3 cup dry white wine
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Fresh thyme sprigs for garnish, optional

1. Rinse skate wings, and with a paring knife, cut slits into membrane side to prevent from curling while cooking. Pat dry with paper towels and dredge in flour.

2. Heat oil in a non-stick skillet large enough to hold the filets in one layer. Put in the shallots and, using a wooden spatula, saute quickly over low heat until translucent, about 2-3 minutes. Put in 2 tablespoons butter and when foam subsides and butter browns slightly, add the fish and saute until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Meanwhile warm two dinner plates. Handle the fish carefully as you transfer the fillets to the plates so they don't break apart. Season fish with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Put the mushrooms in the same skillet the fish cooked in and increase heat to medium-high, stirring constantly for 3-4 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and thyme and stir to mix. Add the wine and bring to the edge of a boil, scraping the bottom to deglaze pan juices and toss to coat with the mushrooms. Spoon over the fish.

4. Stir remaining tablespoon butter into the liquid over medium high heat. When the sauce thickens slightly pour the juices over the mushrooms. Toss a little lemon juice over everything, garnish with thyme sprigs, if desired, and serve at once.

WEAKFISH MEUNIERE
This classic preparation may be served with or without the slivered almonds.
Serves 4

2 large weakfish fillets, about 1 1/2 pounds
Milk to coat
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
1/4 cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted (optional)

1. Rinse fillets and place in a shallow dish with milk to barely cover.

2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large non-stick skillet until hot. Meanwhile coat the fish with flour on both sides and season with salt and pepper. Saute one fillet at a time (do not crowd the pan) until well-browned, about 3 minutes on each side. Add butter as needed to continue cooking. Transfer fillets to a platter, one layer deep, as they are done.

3. Stir lemon juice and parsley into the brown butter pan drippings and stir to mix over medium heat. Pour sauce over the fillets and top with slivered almonds. Serve at once.