Simple Art of Cooking

Signs of Spring: Asparagus

by Silvia Lehrer

"The asparagus are growing." This was a comment made to me some weeks ago. It immediately conjured up visions of spring although the temperature at the time was still in the 30s. These were sweet words to hear after the winter.

Asparagus isn't new to the season. It's available at supermarkets and specialty food stores throughout the year from far away places and at premium prices. It's only new in that it is currently coming in from California and there is nothing to match the first tender stalks of spring for flavor and texture. Local asparagus from our own East End farms will not be sprouting until late May or June. And never mind if they're thin, medium or thick. The real secret of quality asparagus lies in freshness, not in size! To prepare them for cooking break off the bottom stems from where they naturally bend, then with a paring knife, trim off the points along the spears as they could harbor sand then rinse well. Asparagus has zero fat, is very low in calories and carbohydrates, high in potassium with a good amount of vitamin C. So make the most of it.

For pasta, thin to medium asparagus would be preferable so they can be cut into bite size pieces. Creamy fresh ricotta cheese is the basis for pasta shells with asparagus and it's simply luscious. The recipe for roasted asparagus in a hot oven has been prevalent in cooking magazines and newspaper articles for years. Full credit for this masterpiece of simplicity must be given to Johanne Killeen and George Germon of Al Forno's restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island. They introduced us to the recipe in their 1991 classic, Cucina Simpatica, Harper Collins. There have been many takes on the recipe since. My inspiration for roasted asparagus includes slivers of garlic and parsley.

ROASTED ASPARAGUS ITALIAN STYLE

Preheat oven to 425 degrees

1. Break asparagus spears where they naturally bend and discard tough ends. Trim points along the spears, leaving the tender tips. Rinse and pat dry with paper towel.

2. Pour olive oil, salt and pepper into the center of a baking sheet. Arrange asparagus and garlic over the oil mixture and toss to coat in the oil. Spread to one layer deep and season with salt and pepper. Roast in preheated oven for 8-10 minutes until just tender. Remove from heat. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

PASTA SHELLS WITH RICOTTA AND ASPARAGUS

Thin asparagus is preferred for this dish so that they can be cut into bite size pieces.

Serves 4 - 6

For the sauce:
3/4 pound thin to medium asparagus
3/4 pound fresh ricotta, if commercial ricotta, drain for several hours or overnight
3/4 cup light cream
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2-3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
For the pasta:
1 pound medium pasta shells
2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt for the pasta water

1. Break asparagus spears where they naturally bend and discard tough ends. Trim off points along the spears as they may harbor sand, leaving the tender tips. Rinse well. Cut vegetable into one-inch pieces then place in a skillet barely covered with water and bring to the boil. Cook asparagus at a brisk simmer until tender, but with a bite, about 2-4 minutes, depending on size. While asparagus cooks, stir together the ricotta and cream and put into a skillet. Drain cooked asparagus and stir into the ricotta mixture.

2. Meanwhile, bring a five-quart pot of water to the boil. Add salt and put in the pasta all at once. Stir pasta to separate, maintain a rolling boil and cook about 9-12 minutes or until al dente. Taste for doneness. Ladle about 1/4 cup pasta water into the ricotta/asparagus mixture before draining and keep warm over low heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon to smooth the mixture. Season with salt, pepper to taste, add parsley and stir to mix.

3. Drain the pasta and immediately transfer to a warm serving bowl. Pour over the ricotta and asparagus mixture and gently toss to completely coat with the sauce. Serve at once in warm pasta bowls.

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