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 Issue #04, April 20, 2007

The Garden At Rock Cottage by Lance Brilliantine

Bloom Time

Daffodils are blooming on the East End - a welcome site after winter. Thankfully, deer and squirrels do not forage them, so they remain intact, unlike my crocuses and tulips. Because they are one of the easier bulbs to grow, they are an excellent choice to herald spring in an East End garden.

Because daffodils are so desirable, and the bulbs are planted in fall, it is important to mark where bulbs are planted at this time of year if you intend to add more bulbs this coming fall. Simply push a small piece of a paint-stirring stick where the bulbs reside so you can identify the location of bulbs this fall.

Daffodils are availible in early, mid-season, and late blooming varieties, and naturalize easily. They produce some of the best and longest displays in mass plantings where multiple varieties are planted together. The bulbs work best in locations where the residual foliage can mature and on its own. Cropped or cut foliage does not re-vitalize the bulbs and reduces blooms the following season.

All daffodils are in a classification of plants known as Lilliopsida, family named Liliaceae, and genus known as Narcissus. All Narcissi are not classified as daffodils, however. Those known as "jonquils," the word means "flower" in Spanish, are included. Daffodils and jonquils signify chivalry and respect. It is also the national flower of Wales.

Daffodils have an enchanting fragrance. Some people, like deer and squirrels, are quite allergic to the sap produced when the stalks are cut. The sap contains calcium oxalate that is an allergen.

Daffodils are typically large-flowered and come in yellow, white, orange, pink, lime-green and combinations thereof. The newer hybrids may offer shades of red, pink and brown. The traditional yellow daffodil is stunning on its own, but breeders have developed varieties with multiple colors and double or triple rows of petals, and frilled or reticulated petals with either elongated or compressed central trumpets.

The central trumpet of a daffodil is called its "corona," which is surrounded by petals. Daffodils are classified by the length and shape of the corona. There are thirteen divisions that include those with trumpets that are long or short-cupped; triandrus, with more than one flower per stem; cyclamineus, with straight and narrow coronas; jonquilla, with multiple flower heads per stem; tazetta, with small, short-cupped flowers; poeticus, with stained petals and coronas edged in red; bulbocodium hybrids, where the flowers resemble a "hooped petticoat"; and split corona, where the corona is split. There is also a classification that includes other cultivates not falling into the mentioned categories, and of course, the wild forms.

Daffodils grow best in locations that are well-drained and sunny. Hillsides, slopes, and raised beds are ideal since drainage is important. Soil needs to be cultivated to a depth of about 10-inches deep. In clay and sand, amend the soil with well-rotted compost, soil additives, or peat moss. Daffodils grow best in slightly acidic soil, which are found on the East End of Long Island.

Deadhead the plants once the flowers fade to remove developing seeds and to conserve the bulb's energy to produce the next year's crop of flowers. Daffodils make their next year's blooms after flowering, so it is important to leave the foliage to invigorate the bulb and spark flower generation. Never cut the foliage until it begins to yellow, which usually happens in mid-June. Daffodils bloom successfully for three-to-five years without disturbance. Then the bulbs need to be divided and replanted at an appropriate level since they tend to sink over time. If you have bulbs that are not blooming, they probably need to be divided or moved to a new location.

Daffodils need a good deal of water to grow successfully. Keep the bulbs well watered until about three weeks after they finish blooming. Then, stop watering and let nature "do its thing." Remember to purchase top-quality bulbs and plant them so the tops (pointed end) are about two times as deep as the height of the bulb. If planting bulbs in sandy soil, plant them slightly deeper than in humus. Avoid using bone meal when planting, as it attracts foraging animals.

While fall is some time away, it is not too early to start thinking about next spring. Mark existing daffodil locations, and be on the lookout for new hybrids as the season progresses.

You can contact Lance Brilliantine with any questions or comments at gardenlance@yahoo.com.


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