Dan's Papers - April 10, 2009

My grandmother called it rouge. We call it blush. But no matter what you call it, the color you put on your cheeks can make you look like you have spent time in the garden or time in the circus. This is how critical the application, formula and choice of color is when it comes to choosing cheek color.

Wikipedia defines rouge as "a cosmetic used to color the cheeks and emphasize the cheekbones." Actually, when buying and applying blush, the definition is a good one to keep in mind.

The most popular formula of blush is powder. For those who want a natural look with just a hint of color, there is a method of choosing color, which is not well known, but works every time. Put the powdered blush on the pad of your fingertip, and then compare the shade of the product to your inner lip color. The color that matches your inner lip most closely will give you the most natural look. If you are going for natural, stay away from any product with frost even if it matches your inner lip, and beware that anything with frost or shimmer applied where the skin is even a little wrinkled will accentuate those wrinkles.

When if comes to application of powdered blush, a light hand and big fluffy brush work best. Apply the product to the brush in a back and forth motion, getting the product on the sides of the brush rather than the tips of the brush. This will help keep your brush in good condition for years and you'll get a smoother application on your cheeks. Once you have applied the color to the brush, use this same back and forth motion on your skin. Start by smiling, begin the application on the apple of the cheek, and go back toward the center of the ear. Do not go up toward the temple, or into the hairline. Repeat the stroke, going back toward the apple of the cheek. That is it. Do not repeat until the rest of your makeup is finished, i.e., lips, eyes, brows, etc. Most often you'll discover you don't need any more color. If you're going to an evening event and it's going to be dark you may repeat the process after all other makeup has been applied, but then just concentrate on the apple of the cheek.

Cream blush is great for those that want a dewy look, and is best applied over a moisturizer or foundation. Apply the product on the same part of the cheek as described above, but with creams it's best to use your fingertips and pat and dab it onto the skin.

The same holds true for gel cheek colors. You really need to apply these over a moisturizer or a sheer foundation or else they are likely to look blotchy. The difference between a cream and a gel is that gels are bit more transparent than creams. Creams have a higher density of color.

Then there is tint blush, which is really a synonym for stain blush, because it will not come off until you wash it off. So it must be used carefully and quickly. You have to apply it with your fingers and blend it quickly before it dries, or it will be streaky. It's probably best for those with an experienced hand and a good eye who want to have a hint of color, which will last under the most extreme conditions.

Next time your thinking cheek color, keep it simple, keep it light, and most of all, use it right.