Dan's Papers - April 11, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Spinacia oleracea is the Latin name for the leafy vegetable we know as spinach. Popeye probably didn't know this name either when he made himself super strong the second he ate the vegetable. While spinach probably won't make us super strong as soon as we eat it, it's an excellent source of vitamins A and C, promoting health and vitality in many ways. Studies show that spinach may protect against osteoporosis, heart disease, colon cancer and arthritis. It also contains lutein, a carotenoid protective against eye disease.

We may have balked at eating spinach as kids but as grown-ups, we know the many delicious ways spinach can be enjoyed. For a quick side dish I will sauté crinkly spinach leaves in olive oil with slivers of garlic and a squeeze of lemon just before serving. Spinach salads became all the rage in the '70s and '80s with the beginnings of California cuisine and the focus on using fresh local produce. A recipe for spinach, raisins and pine nuts was ubiquitous, appearing in numerous cooking magazines and food articles during this period as well. It has certainly stood the test of time and continues to please. Spinaka con aroz or Spanakorizo, a spinach and rice dish familiar to both Sephardic Jews and Greek orthodox, as well as a dish I've had at home growing up, is so delicious; I worked out the details of the recipe to share with you.

Although spinach is available through the year, it peaks in April and May, and again from September through October when it is freshest, has the best flavor and is most readily available. Choose spinach that has vibrant deep green crinkly leaves with no signs of yellowing. It is important to note that spinach harbors lots of sand and grit. Be sure to wash thoroughly in several changes of tepid water. When cooking spinach for a recipe, place in a large saucepan with no water other than the water that clings to its leaves after washing and cook for just 1-2 minutes until the leaves wilt. Now you're ready to prepare the delectable dishes below.

1 1/2 pounds fresh spinach
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, finely chopped
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup converted rice
Juice of 1/2 large lemon

1. Discard heavy stems from spinach and any blemished leaves. Rinse spinach thoroughly in several changes of tepid water to rid sand and grit. Lift the soaked spinach into a colander and set aside.
2. Heat oil in a large, heavy 5-6 quart pot and add the chopped onion. Saute onion, stirring occasionally until translucent, about 3-4 minutes. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper and simmer, turning the leaves, until the spinach wilts, about 5 minutes. Add water and sugar, bring to a boil and add the rice. Submerge rice into the spinach mixture and cover pot. Simmer until rice absorbs all the liquid, about 20 minutes. Pour in lemon juice and stir to mix. Taste to adjust seasonings as necessary and serve hot.

SPINACH, RAISINS AND PINE NUTS
A recipe that has stood the test of time
Serves 4-6

2 pounds fresh, loose spinach
1/3 cup golden raisins
1/3 cup warm water
1/3 cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons light, fruity olive oil
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Discard heavy stems from spinach and any blemished leaves. Rinse spinach thoroughly in several changes of tepid water to rid of sand and grit. Place spinach in a saucepan with just the water that clings to its leaves and cook for 3 minutes, no longer. Drain in a colander and refresh under cold running water to stop the cooking. Squeeze dry in the palm of your hands. Transfer to a clean kitchen towel and squeeze the towel around the ball of spinach to absorb excess moisture. Spinach should be as dry as possible. Can be prepared ahead to this point. When ready to cook, place on a cutting board and chop coarsely.
2. Meanwhile soak raisins in warm water for about 15 minutes to "plump" them.
3. Heat oil in a skillet and sauté pine nuts over medium heat until golden, add garlic and sauté for just a few seconds longer, being careful not to brown the garlic or pine nuts. Drain raisins; add to skillet with the chopped spinach, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss ingredients in the pan to heat through for just a few minutes and taste to adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve hot.