Dan's Papers - April 11, 2008 - John Duck Falls, And Rises From The Ashes

A 70-year-old restaurant frequented by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, where Henry Ford II, Jackie Gleason, Gary Cooper, Marlo Thomas, Alan Alda and Billy Joel had dined, is gone. On March 30, the last duck was prepared and served at John Duck Jr. in Southampton. The Westerhoff brothers, John and Mark, sold the operation to Jean Mackenzie, a local owner of both The Clamman and 4 Seasons Caterer. The sale seemed to be motivated largely by the weight of debt accrued.

While Mackenzie said the business "is not going to be John Duck," she didn't have a name in mind. She is still "fine tuning" her plan to turn the facility into a catering business for weddings, birthdays, and other large events. A proprietor in Southampton for over 30 years, Mackenzie has positioned her 25-year-old daughter, Mackenzie Koster, a Southampton High School graduate, to run the new venture. "It will be a mother-daughter business," said Mackenzie while supervising the unloading and reloading of a 4 Seasons Caterer's truck at the 15 Prospect Street location of the former John Duck Jr.

In the historic kitchen, with both the former owners and new owners, the vibe ranged from resignation on the part of the Westerhoffs to the total exuberance of Mackenzie and her daughter. John Westerhoff was in the process of finding a new place to live after spending the last 20 years living upstairs at the restaurant. He is leaving the business that was started on the North Fork by his great-grandfather and moved to Southampton by his grandfather. And he is leaving his home.

Mark seemed more resigned to the reality. The space where he prepared over 1,700 ducks a year was being turned over to local hands. He took a few final glances at the kitchen his grandfather taught him to organize. The kitchen where he'd worked all of his life. In the meantime, Mackenzie Koster and her mother discussed what would go and what would stay. John Westerhoff, who has known Jean Mackenzie for more than 25 years, said, "I am happy she is buying it - keeping it local - instead of some large corporation."

15 Prospect Street had been a notorious speakeasy called Bill Thiele's Terrace Inn when Ben Westerhoff, the grandfather, purchased the business in 1946 for $5,000. During renovations many years later, filled gin bottles from that era were found buried in the walls. Signs hang on those walls today - like the Southampton Rotary Club's listing of past Presidents, from J. Corwin in 1946 to Patricia Boleny 2006. Mackenzie said all the clubs -Kiwanis, Rotary, Pedro's, Lion's - will continue to hold their meetings at 15 Prospect Street.

During the last two weeks, business at John Duck Jr. was outstanding as those who knew about the sale came by for their final chance to enjoy traditional favorites. Fathers brought sons to eat at the place where their fathers had brought them. John Westerhoff again thanked the families of Southampton that have been in through the years. He was emotional. He even mentioned the possibility of a new John Duck Jr. at another location, but admitted financing was not yet in place.

So gone forever are the days when Gloria Westerhoff, 83, the mother of John and Mark, will stand at the front door of 15 Prospect Street greeting regular customers, like 90-year-old former Southampton Town Justice Ted Sharrets. The final Roast Long Island Duckling with Apple Raisin Stuffing has been served. A tradition has died. Soon the familiar John Duck Jr. sign will be taken down forever.

But Jean Mackenzie sees it as a new beginning. She looked around and said, "This place is a gem, and I am going to polish her up." Trish Rehill, local gardening guru and friend of Mackenzie's, said this was "a great transition for both families...It's great that the place stayed in local hands."