Dan's Papers - April 4, 2008 -

I have to start this review by saying that Parto's has become one of our favorite places over the past five years that it has been open. We know that when we leave we will feel happy, not just because we have eaten well but also because Frank Spatola, his charming daughters, Viviana and Isabella, and his staff's exuberance and friendliness just make you feel that way.

When you walk into this charming restaurant, take a moment to look at the exposed brickwork, the beautiful tiled floor and the wrought ironwork. All of this is also Frank's work, because back where he is from in Sicily, he worked as a master craftsman in brick and ironwork before he decided to become a professional chef and restaurant owner. Also, take a moment to enjoy the evocative black and white movie stills around the walls that recall such greats as Mastroianni and of course the incomparably beautiful Sophia Loren.

But back to the food. Frank is an opera lover and also something of a philosopher. His food philosophy goes along the lines that cooking is somewhat akin to writing music, in that everything must be harmonious to achieve the desired result, He also insists on all his ingredients being fresh wherever possible because the essence of his Sicilian based cuisine is fresh simplicity.

Here you can enjoy some of the best pizza I have ever eaten, even in Italy, but we started this evening with his version of the classic Caprese mozzarella and tomato salad with grilled chicken. This came as a beautifully plated arrangement of sliced grilled chicken breast with small balls of the lightest and tastiest fresh mozzarella with sliced tomatoes, lots of fresh garlic and a touch of basil. It was dressed with one of those incredible sweet and deep tasting balsamic vinaigrettes that seem to say that you have to have an Italian birth certificate to be able to reproduce them correctly. This is why it is so easy here to forget the outside world and just let the food and wine transport you across to Italy.

For the main course, Stella had a veal Milanese special that arrived as large cutlets of very tender veal, impeccably and crisply fried. He also sent out a small portion of one of his special risottos. This one was with mushrooms and again exemplified Italian cuisine at its best, creamy and with deep long lasting tastes. Frank told us that he has a repertoire of around a hundred varieties of risotto - it could be fun to work through them one at a time! I opted for shrimp fra diavolo on a bed of linguine.

Again the presentation was a picture, with the shrimp moist and perfectly cooked with some great fresh linguine plus a fresh tomato sauce that had just enough heat to make it interesting, without overwhelming the delicacy of the shrimp.

Portions here are generous and I just have to give one word of warning. If you are a vampire or simply do not like garlic, beware and make this known to your server because Frank freely admits to being the "garlic guy!"

Desserts are garlic free - I think! The house specialty is the homemade cannoli, but you can also enjoy an excellent cheesecake, chocolate cake or a range of gelati.

Parto's has a small but well-chosen wine list and more and more Long Island wines are featured alongside their international competitors because Frank is a great admirer of the local wineries and their products. They also offer a range of domestic and international beers.

This is a restaurant where you can enjoy a main course dish for under twenty dollars and a bottle of very respectable wine also for less than twenty-five dollars, prices that are extremely reasonable in today's world. All restaurant owners, like homeowners, are facing tremendous price increases in virtually all of their ingredients, especially bread and flour products, and this cost pressure shows little or no signs of abating in the near future.

Parto's has rightly developed a faithful following of regular customers for lunch, dinner and also for take out ordering. This is simply a great and informal place where you can come and eat in pleasantly comfortable surroundings whenever you feel like great Italian food. Whether it be pizza, a plate of lasagna or baked ziti, one of their hot or cold heros, a large dish of one of their twenty two different pasta dishes on the menu, or something from the main meal menu. There is also a varied and interesting list of specials that changes on a weekly basis.