Dan's Papers - March 28, 2008 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

The Spaniards introduced the artichoke to California when they arrived and it seemed to have departed with them, only to return in significant quantities about half a century ago. Initially, the plant grew only in Italy but it continued westward to France, Spain and England. Today, Castroville, California is the artichoke capital of the world, producing 90% of the commercial crop. Local farmers on the East End have experimented with the seed since 2002 and have recently become successful, making it a local crop.

Artichokes can be braised, fried, stuffed or steamed, affording us a medley of delicious culinary compositions. A family member recently reminded me of the braised, sweet and sour artichokes we ate as children. The dish, with roots in Spain, is a humble one. Small pieces of artichoke stewed with onions and tomatoes and sauced with lemon, vinegar and a bit of sugar make the dish sweet and tangy - but not spicy - I loved it.

Early in my marriage I was introduced to the vegetable served whole. I relished the piquant parsley vinaigrette into which I dipped the leaves' fleshy bottom. The recipe became a favorite dinner party first course. The flowerlike vegetable, which can be prepared completely ahead, made a beautiful presentation as my guests came to the table.

However you prepare artichokes, it is important to trim them carefully. With a sharp knife slice off the stem and trim the bottom rows, snapping off the tough larger leaves until you are left with a central cone of leaves, pale at the base and green only at the tip. Cut away about 1 1/2 inches from the top. Remove the hairy inner choke, being careful not to disturb the meaty flesh beneath, the texture of which maintains the artichoke's personality. Once they are cut, artichokes discolor rapidly and should be put into a bowl of acidulated water immediately; that is, water mixed with lemon juice. It is best to cut artichokes with stainless steel knives and cook in non-reactive cookware such as stainless steel or enamel.

ARTICHOKES VINAIGRETTE
Whole artichokes, compact with tight green leaves, make an appealing first course.
Serves 4-6

4 to 6 artichokes
1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice

For the vinaigrette
1 large clove garlic or shallot, finely chopped
2-3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon flat-leaf Italian parsley
1 1/4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Cut the stems of the artichokes evenly, leaving about a 1/2-inch stub, so that they stand. At the base remove and discard tough outer leaves. With kitchen scissors, cut off the tips of each leaf, spiraling the vegetable. Lay each artichoke on its side, and with a knife, make a sharp clean straight cut about 1 1/2 inches from the top. Put artichokes into a bowl of acidulated water (lemon juice and water) to prevent discoloration.

2. Place artichokes side by side in a deep non-reactive saucepan just large enough to hold them in one layer. Pour in enough water to come about 2/3 of the way up the sides. Drizzle in vegetable oil and lemon juice. Bring to a boil over high heat, uncovered; adjust heat, and then cook at a brisk simmer 25-40 minutes (according to size). When leaves easily release the artichokes are cooked, be careful not to overcook or they will be mushy. Remove with a slotted spoon and turn upside down to drain on paper towel. May be prepared ahead and refrigerated in a suitable container.

3. To serve: In a mixing bowl combine garlic or shallots with mustard, salt, pepper and vinegar and stir to mix. Gradually beat in oil in a slow steady stream until mixture is thoroughly blended. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary and divide equally into custard cups. Place artichokes on salad plates accompanied by the vinaigrette. Serve at room temperature.

BRAISED BABY ARTICHOKES WITH GARLIC AND OLIVE OIL
With small, tender spring artichokes, the entire vegetable can be eaten once the choke is removed. This makes a wonderful first course or side dish.
Serves 4-6

6-8 baby artichokes
1 lemon halved
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2-3/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup water
2 sprigs each fresh thyme and rosemary
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Snap off the outer leaves of artichokes, as far as they will snap, leaving only the tender inner yellow leaves. Slice off each top where it meets the lighter portion. Cut each one in half, slice off the tip of the artichoke stem and cut the artichokes in half lengthwise. Scrape the thorny inner choke with a teaspoon and discard. Place the artichoke hearts, as they are trimmed, into a bowl of fresh cold water with the juice and squeezed lemon halves.

2. Drain the chokes and pat dry with paper towels. Heat the oil in a skillet and sauté the shallots and garlic for 1-2 minutes, being careful not to brown them. Put the artichokes in the skillet and pour over the white wine and water. There should be enough liquid to barely cover the artichokes. Add the herbs and season the mixture with salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to the edge of a boil then adjust heat to medium-low. With cover ajar, cook until artichokes are tender when pricked with a fork, about 30-35 minutes. Check for evaporation, adding a bit more water or wine as necessary.